Farewell for 2020

Soon after Manookatoo reached Rosslyn Bay Marina in Yeppoon, the first mate flew south from Rockhampton to be with family in Sydney. The Captain wrote himself a long list of jobs, top of which was getting a new gearbox for the anchor! Fortunately supplies were delivered quickly and he was able to have a working anchor winch again within a couple of days. With border closures between Sydney and Queensland continuing, it was obvious that the first mate would not be returning to the boat in the foreseeable future, so cruising plans changed into boat storage plans, and the decision was made to get the boat to Bundaberg for the summer, avoiding cyclone prone areas and keeping the boat secure.

 

After a few days of windy conditions, a small weather “window” opened on Saturday and the Captain decided to take it, leaving Rosslyn Bay at first light and turning south, reaching The Narrows as the wind increased and cruising over the Ramsey Cattle Crossing as the tide was almost high. He continued on to Gladstone Public Jetty to catch up with our friends Andrew and Yvonne, before anchoring at Sheoak Island for the night. On Sunday, he moved to a perfect cove to protect Manookatoo from the winds blowing up to 25 knots, anchoring off Tide Island. On Monday morning he tied up for a few hours near Gladstone Marina, filling up the water tanks and catching up with friends Ruth and Peter for a quick chat, before walking into town for a few groceries, returning to Manookatoo to anchor off Sheoak Island again before lunch.

Leaving at first light

Aeroplane Beach

 

The wind finally settled on Tuesday so the Captain was up and ready at first light (4.30 am), leaving the protection of Curtis Island and continuing south, reaching Pancake Creek by 10am. The trip was a little "lumpy", with a 20 knot wind developing against an outgoing tide. Eighteen boats were anchored in the creek, all waiting for enough of a break in the rolling seas in order to continue south! After setting the anchor he dropped the dinghy and went ashore for a walk along the sand. Later that afternoon, quite a few Boaties gathered on the shore to enjoy sundowners and a good chat. On Wednesday it was time for exercises, followed by a refreshing swim, which included washing around the waterline! After breakfast he headed ashore again, walking along the bush track towards the lighthouse, then detouring onto the track to Aeroplane Beach and back to the creek via the rocky shore. He caught up with a couple of ex-members of Yaringa Mariners Club, Westernport Bay, where Manookatoo was berthed when we first got her, and enjoyed drinks on their 59 foot yacht.

“The family”

 

Thursday dawned clear and calm, so many of the boats on anchor in Pancake Creek made the most of the conditions to raise anchors and head south. Manookatoo and the Captain had plenty of company as they cruised along, entering the Burnett River just after 2pm, fuelling up and finding a berth at the marina soon after. Later that afternoon he enjoyed farewell drinks with Yvonne and Andrew on Tranquility Base; they continue cruising south tomorrow and will be taking our “family” of plants with them as we can’t enjoy them any more; this is our final destination for this year.

Slipped for summer "on the hard"

 

The next three days were spent preparing Manookatoo for the summer: emptying cupboards and fridges of perishable foods, cleaning all the walls and doors, spraying anti mould solutions on all surfaces, placing water absorbing containers and moth balls in nooks and crannies and containers filled with diluted vinegar (to kill any mould spores) in every room. Bedding was washed, mattresses aired, windows were cleaned and even the toilet was wrapped in gladwrap! He also found time for drinks and dinner with friends, bus trips to Bundaberg and a few local walks. On Monday morning the boat was lifted out of the water and had her bottom cleaned of any weed and grime before she was moved into storage “on the hard”. The captain flew out of Bundaberg airport on Monday afternoon, bound for Brisbane and the Gold Coast, then Sydney and finally Melbourne - our wonderful northern cruise is over for this year, but we will return in 2021!!

The Captain’s Log: Rosslyn Bay to Burnett Heads

Distance travelled: 140.6 nautical miles 

Fuel consumption: 163.4 litres

Travelling Time 27 hours 40 minutes

Farewell Whitsundays, hello Keppels

Beautiful Turtle Bay

We love the Whitsundays; the crystal clear blue water, the beautiful secluded islands and inlets, the amazing sea life. It has always been a favourite destination of ours. Leaving the Port of Airlie Marina late on Sunday morning, we headed east towards Whitsunday Island, stopping for lunch at the edge of Gulnare Inlet, then continuing on into Turtle Bay, a beautiful expanse of water with lots of little beaches between rocky outcrops. Soon after anchoring we dropped the kayaks in the water, keen to explore the beaches more closely and paddling around from one to another, greeting other Boaties on each beach we visited. It was a glorious afternoon and the water was too inviting not to go swimming! Returning to Manookatoo for showers and sundowners, we made pizzas for dinner. Our intention had been to eat them in front of the TV, watching the NRL grand final, but we had no reception, relying instead on patchy radio coverage and occasional text messages from Julie, in Melbourne, to find out the score! It was good to hear that Melbourne won, anyway.

On Monday morning we raised the anchor and headed out to the edge of the bay, where we could see Hamilton Island, so that we could check the weather and make a few phone calls. That done, we returned to our previous position deep in the bay and relaxed the rest of the day away, with a couple of kayaking trips and swims to keep us active.

Sunset over Dent Island

Hamilton Island Marina

We decided that it is about time to start moving south, but, for “old times sake” a night at Hamilton Island was in order, so on Tuesday morning we raised the anchor and took the short trip across the bay. As we are planning long trips in the days to come, we bought some fuel before going to our berth. After securing the boat we headed ashore to explore, checking out the shops and taking the courtesy bus across to the main resort. While there are many tourists around it is nowhere near at capacity, and almost half of the stores and restaurants are “closed until further notice”. We had a drink at the Tavern before lunch, then later we packed our iPads and swimmers and walked across to the resort to while away the afternoon by the pool. That evening we returned to the Tavern for a lovely meal on the top deck overlooking the marina.

Coppersmith Light Station

Thunderstorms passing by

On Wednesday morning we decided on a walk - up the very steep hill and down the other side, along the foreshore and back to the boat - it was only a few kilometres but boy, was it steep! We were quite envious of the golf buggies whizzing past us as we huffed and puffed upwards. After a reviving breakfast we took our “Granny trolley” and walked to the IGA for a few last minute supplies, then we filled the boat with water, untied the lines and bade farewell to Hammo,  cruising down Dent Passage and across towards Lindeman and Shaw Islands, stopping in the beautiful Billbob bay, on the southern side, for lunch, then continuing on. This southern part of the Whitsundays is much less visited but no less beautiful, you could spend a month cruising the area and not reach every anchorage. Mid afternoon we passed Coppersmith Rock, with its very modern new age lighthouse, before rounding Goldsmith Island and dropping anchor in Stingray Bay. We had intended kayaking to shore and having a refreshing swim, however the wind got very gusty and we decided against that plan, choosing to relax for the afternoon. As a precaution, the Captain put out over 50m of anchor chain - enough to keep us well and truly in place! The wind continued into the evening and we watched thunderstorms pass just north of us, continuing on to the coast with an amazing lightning show before dying away to calm clear conditions after dark.

ROCKS!!

We woke on Thursday to glassy seas and blue skies - perfect conditions for cruising. We raised the anchor just before 6am and continued south. The rocky outcrops - both large and small - are quite spectacular (and dangerous!) in this part of the Whitsundays and it pays to keep a close eye out at all times; not all of them have navigation warnings on them. Not all are above the water, either, which is why you must also keep an eye on the GPS! Conditions were very calm; the first mate enjoyed her yoga session and, after breakfast, made sausage rolls for lunch! It was too lovely not to make the most of it so we continued past our planned destination, Scawfell Island, on towards Double Island, however we didn’t think it offered us much beach to swim on nor much protection if the wind got up at night. We finally anchored at Digby Island just after 4pm, dropping the kayaks in the water and paddling ashore for a walk. The rolling waves made for an “interesting” paddle, particularly when returning to the boat - by the time we got back the kayaks were half filled with water! The waves continued rolling us around well into the night, encouraging the first mate to choose the couch in the saloon over the bed in the cabin for sleeping.

We woke quite early the next morning, the rolling waves had continued all night and we were eager to get away from the swell. Some islands seem to attract choppy, confused seas particularly at tide changes, but once we were away from the anchorage things settled down a bit - not as smooth as yesterday though. A change of plans has us speeding up a bit, getting to the Keppels by Saturday night instead of taking the slow meandering cruise via some more islands, so the Captain increased Manookatoo’s speed and we headed south, passing a couple of previous destinations, rounding Cape Townshend and  anchoring in Pearl Bay. There were no other boats there - a big contrast to our last stop, in late May. Conditions were also calmer than at Digby Island, however a recalcitrant anchor winch had the Captain manually lowering the anchor while the first mate manned the controls. As the sun set and the full moon rose, we enjoyed coral trout for dinner on the back deck and retired to bed.

Thank goodness for friends!

An early start was in order on Saturday as we still had quite a distance to cover and the wind was forecast to get up as the day went on. Once again the captain manually raised the anchor while the first mate slowly drove forward to his instructions - he needs no more exercise at the moment as pulling up heavy anchor chain and a much heavier anchor is very hard work! We headed out of Pearl Bay into rolly seas (fortunately we had secured everything before we left!) and turned southeast as the sun rose. Conditions settled a little once we passed Cape Manifold, however just as we reached Yeppoon the wind increased, making for an “interesting” entry to Rosslyn Bay harbour and into the marina berth! Luckily, friends Robyn and Dick were on hand to keep the boat off the jetty and help tie up. Phew! We made the most of the rest of the day to catch up on some much needed rest before hosting our friends for sundowners on the flybridge. 

Farewell, Kool Sid

The Singing Ship

Sunday was a much calmer day! We farewelled Robyn and Dick, on Kool Sid II, as they head north, then caught the bus to Emu Park and enjoyed a nice walk up to the “Singing ship” and around the foreshore before lunch at “The Piney” (Pine Beach pub), catching the bus back in the afternoon and then walking over to the beach for a late afternoon swim. Sunday night is (nearly!) always Pizza night, relaxing in front of the television before an early night.

Pebble Beach, Rosslyn Bay

Fan Rock, Rosslyn Bay

On Monday we enjoyed a morning walk up the hill to admire the view to Great Keppel Island and beyond, followed by a refreshing swim. After doing a few odd jobs we returned to the beach for another swim before lunch - temperatures are getting up and so is the humidity!

Manookatoo will remain in Keppel Bay Marina for the next little while, as the captain repairs the anchor winch and does another few small jobs on the boat and the first mate flies south to be with family. How long the boat is here and what the captain does next is a little bit up in the air at the moment; as Doris Day once said “Que Sera Sera, whatever will be, will be”!

The Captain's log: Airlie Beach to Rosslyn Bay

Distance - 241.2 nautical miles

Fuel Consumption - 298.4 litres (1.24 L per NM)

Travelling time - 36.25 hours (average speed 6.65 knots)

Whitsundays revisited

 

Shag Island shoreline

Cape Gloucester was a lovely place and we made the most of our four nights there, exploring the coastline by foot along the sandy shore and by dinghy around the rocky headland - even wading through the water at low tide to visit Shag Island. We had lunch at the Eco Resort one day and visited for a swim and a drink on two afternoons, we swam at the beach every morning after our exercises. And we relaxed, the Captain doing a few “odd jobs” on Manookatoo or making bread, roti and banana slice, the first mate cleaning the wet areas and the salt covered glass, cooking or knitting. The wind caused us no problems and a breeze kept the temperature reasonable in the middle of the sunny days. While we were there, a maintenance crew was testing and upgrading each of the moorings, so we knew we were very safe!

An early start

On Friday morning, just before 6am, with the winds easing and the weekend looking very promising, we let the mooring go and headed through the Gloucester Passage, cruising south towards Airlie Beach. Just before 10am we tied up at the jetty next to the launching ramp, where the captain filled up the water tanks and gave the boat a quick wash and the first mate walked over the hill to Woolies for a few supplies. Then we were off again, past the anchorages full of boats and where the big ferries were departing for Hamilton Island, past Funnel Bay and Shute Harbour, through “Unsafe passage” and into Moonlight Bay, on South Molle Island. We anchored between the old moorings, noticing that the jetty was being rebuilt, the beginning of work on a new resort to replace the current wreck. The wind blew strongly as the day wore on, at first from the south, then from the east, so we were protected by the mountainous island, but later it turned northeasterly, blowing down the bay, causing the boat to rock and the anchor chain to moan loudly. Fearing this may lead to an uncomfortable night, we raised the anchor and headed across Whitsunday Passage to Macona Inlet, on Hook Island, a protected anchorage surrounded almost completely by steep hills. We enjoyed a quiet night in the company of five other boats, some of them charter yachts - it is good to see those businesses are open again.

Kayaking at Butterfly Bay

On Saturday morning we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before the captain raised the mud-covered anchor and we were off again, cruising along the west side of Hook Island, past Hayman Island, now very much open for business, and into Butterfly Bay. There are nine courtesy moorings in west Butterfly, five more in east, so we were confident of picking one up and we found one in a good position, on the west side of the west bay, near the reef and the rocky shore. Later in the morning we dropped the kayaks in and paddled to the beach for a swim and then to the end of the bay, the first mate managing to overturn her kayak on a gust-driven wave, needing the captain’s assistance to right her kayak and re-board! Other than that, the trip along the rocks and mangroves was lovely. As the afternoon wore on and the wind eased, we went out in the kayaks again, over to the now quite large sandy strip of beach, admiring the coral, much easier to see at low tide. We enjoyed a three course meal in this most peaceful and picturesque anchorage.

Bait Reef

On Sunday morning we dropped the mooring soon after 7:00. It was the beginning of a “window” of fine weather, with light, north easterly winds forecast for the next week; the best time, so we had been told, to visit the outer reef, so we were keen to get going and try and secure a mooring at Bait Reef, 18 nautical miles away. We weren’t the only ones with that idea! By the time we arrived, just after 10am, two boats were moored and another was just entering through the coral bommies, called the “Stepping stones” as they are all in a line, into the shallower waters of the lagoon. We were happy to follow them in and secure one of the remaining moorings. By 1pm all moorings were taken. As the tide fell, the shallow waters over the coral became more pronounced. After lunch we took the dinghy over and tried snorkelling but most of what we found was dead coral with the occasional small living piece. Moving the boat and stopping over a large bommie, the captain tried again and saw more of the living reef we were looking for, but the first mate was happy to hang over the side of the dinghy, leaving any further snorkelling for another day. We relaxed the afternoon away and enjoyed pizzas for dinner - no television or internet reception here so we settled for the offerings from our hard drive to entertain us.

We woke on Monday morning to clear skies and glassy seas, so we started our exercises early, then jumped into the kayaks to look around. The tide was starting to come in but it was still easy to see the coral. The captain tried snorkelling, tying his kayak to his leg, but there was a strong current pushing him away from the coral bommie and into the deeper sea, so he scrambled aboard again quickly! We spent a quiet day in the lagoon, doing a few odd jobs, resting and relaxing, then as the tide dropped again we took the dinghy over near the “Stepping stones”, tied it to a small mooring, then snorkelled around the edge of one of the bommies. Most colourful coral is on the steep, deep sides of the outcrops and there is something quite eery about swimming in shallow water one minute and very deep water the next! The fish life was amazing, with hundred of little colourful fish of every variety and a few quite large ones too. As the tide dropped the current pushing us out of the shallow water increased, so we returned to the dinghy and motored over to a calmer spot in a large patch of coral, where the captain snorkelled while the first mate relaxed in the boat. Snorkelling is tiring work, and when we returned to Manookatoo we hauled the kayaks aboard, showered and relaxed as the sun sank in the west. We enjoyed dinner on the back deck, admiring the starry sky, the crescent moon in the west and Mars in the east.

The Stepping Stones

High tide at Bait Reef occurred at around midnight and with waves coming unimpeded across the coral, pushed by a moderate breeze, it was quite rolly! While it didn’t stop the Captain sleeping, the first mate spent quite a while rolling around uncomfortably. With a slightly stronger breeze expected on Tuesday night, it was reluctantly decided that we would move to less exposed water, so we dropped the mooring just before 7am and headed out through the ”Stepping stones” and turned west towards the islands of the Whitsundays. Cruising conditions were perfect, with calm seas and a favourable current meaning we burned less fuel than our speed - always the preferred option! It also made breakfast “on the run” a pleasant experience. We pulled up a mooring at Cateran Bay on Border Island just after 10:30 for a swim and a cuppa, then continued towards Whitsunday Island, dropping anchor just off Hill Inlet, at Whitehaven Beach. We enjoyed lunch looking across at the beautiful white sand, then jumped on the dinghy to cruise into Hill Inlet, where access into the lagoon is possible on the high tide, something the captain would like to try in Manookatoo if conditions are right. We walked across the sand to the bay, then returned in the dinghy to swim off the beach, returning to Manookatoo, pulling up the anchor and continuing on. We cruised slowly along the pristine white beachfront at Whitehaven, noticing how many more private and tourist boats there are this time, marvelling at how lucky we were to have the beach to ourselves back in early June! Cruising through Solway Passage, we turned right, entering Chance Bay, opposite Hamilton Island, our destination for the night, just after 4pm. There were a few boats anchored here already, including a “super yacht” from the Gold Coast. We dropped the kayaks in the water and paddled to shore for a walk along the shore, then around the rock face to a second bay, where we enjoyed a swim,  returning to Manookatoo for showers and sundowners before dinner on the back deck, glad to be in such peaceful surroundings.

Whoops!!

On Wednesday morning we had an early breakfast before going ashore in the dinghy. It was low tide, and a fishing boat was stuck high and dry on the sand, a reminder of why knowing tide times and depths is important; they would’ve had an uncomfortable night sleeping on such an angle! We took the walking track up the hill to Whitehaven Beach, a 3.6km walk, however a new track and lookout high on the peak tempted us further. The path and steps were new and well made so, even though it was an uphill trek, it was mostly just a “saunter” through the bush, but the views from the top were spectacular. By the time we reached Whitehaven we were very warm, so we enjoyed a dip in the water before our return walk: 6.8km in total! Another swim refreshed us at Chance Bay before we returned to the boat, raised the anchor and made the short passage around into Crayfish Bay. Telephone reception was important to us as we enjoyed a “Happy birthday” video call with Jack (5) and his parents later in the afternoon. We enjoyed another afternoon kayak to the beach for a walk and a swim, marvelling at the number of turtles here (although the next bay is “Turtle Bay”, no surprise!). Another peaceful night on anchor followed. 

Thursday morning was overcast - good for exercising! After a refreshing swim and breakfast we were off again, this time to Hennning Island, just near Hamilton Island. Once again we needed good reception, this time for the first mate’s Telehealth video with the Alfred Burns Unit - we are so lucky that technology negates the need for in person medical appointments, and the specialist doctor was quite envious of our location! Later we took a short cruise across to Gulnare Inlet, a long narrow flooded valley on Whitsunday Island, considered a bolt hole in cyclones. After anchoring Manookatoo, we tied the kayaks to the dinghy and took them deep into the inlet, paddling the final narrow path through the mangroves. It was almost eery, being in such a quiet, tree lined place with only the sound of the paddles and the occasional bird call. The evening was still and beautiful, with not even a ripple on the water except when a turtle surfaced or a fish jumped.              

Daydream Island 

We returned to Henning Island early on Friday morning, this time for a video Happy Birthday call with Benjamin (9), where we sang to him and he showed us all his presents. While we’re sad to be missing grandsons’ birthdays, at least it is easy to keep in touch and have a small part in the day’s celebrations. After breakfast we continued on, rounding South Molle Island and picking up a mooring in Sandy Bay, looking across at the recently restored Daydream Island. We went ashore in the dinghy, but what had looked like a sandy beach from a distance was actually a coral covered expanse - quite difficult to walk on, but we picked our way along the shore, enjoying a swim at each end of the beach, before returning to Manookatoo for lunch and an afternoon lazing around, watching ferries pass and other boats mooring in the bay. By evening there were six of us, including fishermen camping seashore, enjoying the balmy conditions in the bay, seeing the twinkling lights of Daydream Island and Shute Harbour in the distance.

With the sun rising early and no daylight savings, we dropped the mooring before 7am on Saturday and cruised past the newly reopened Daydream Island, then headed west across the bay, towards Airlie Beach. The Hamilton and Hayman Island ferries were heading out as we entered the channel, it’s good to see the tourists are back and the resorts are open again! We tied up at Port of Airlie Marina just after 8am and, after having breakfast, we took the courtesy car and drove out to Cannonvale for a couple of basic maintenance items, then to our favourite local seafood shop, Fishi, to stock up, before returning to town for groceries from Woolies. We intend making this a one night stop, so we want to get everything we need! After whiling away the afternoon it was “game time” - the AFL grand final. We decided to repeat our movements from three years ago, hoping for the same result, so had dinner at the Yacht Club (the game was on, but muted, as they had live music there), then at half time we headed to Magnums, the “backpacker” pub, where the tables were full, the big screen was on and the atmosphere was electric! We cheered hard and our team lifted, a great win in a pretty unique game - the first one at night, the first one in Queensland. We came back to the boat to listen to the speeches and the team song, by then Magnums had reverted back to a backpacker pub with loud music and was not our scene!

We left the marina before lunch the next morning, after filling the water tanks and emptying the rubbish bins. The weather is still being kind to us so we are making the most of the opportunity to stay on anchor in small bays and inlets, enjoying it while we can. We are reluctant to leave this beautiful part of the world, but time is passing and we should head further south soon!

Captain's Log: Cape Gloucester to Airlie via the outer reef and Whitsunday islands - 

Distance travelled: 113.7 nautical miles

Fuel used: 108.5 litres

Cruising time: 19 hours, 30 minutes

Practising patience and flexibility

Winds can be lower than forecast...

Or higher!!

As any boatie knows, for journeys at sea to be pleasant, and successful, it requires a person to be patient - to wait for the right weather - and flexible - to change plans quickly if the weather changes. Yes, you can go boating in bad weather and yes, you can stick to your plans if the weather forecast changes, but the results might be quite disastrous!

Haycock Island

After two lovely nights at Dunk Island, we dropped the mooring on Monday morning and headed south west, towards Rockingham Bay. Our plans were to have lunch at Goold Island (and hopefully spot some dugongs), then cruise over to Cape Richards, at the top of Hinchinbrook Island, for the night. Then we were going to walk across the island to Shepherd Bay, return to Manookatoo and head down the west side of the island to Zoe Bay, where there is a lovely waterfall and you can swim in the rockpool. From there we would head to Orpheus Island. BUT!! The forecast changed, the wind got up and, as it would have been very unpleasant on the outside of the island, we changed our plans. Instead, we continued across Rockingham Bay to the Hinchinbrook Channel, between the mainland and the island. We dropped the anchor and enjoyed lunch in the calm conditions off Scraggy Point, then continued down the channel to Haycock Island, where we anchored in the calm, still water and enjoyed a lovely night, the breeze keeping the mozzies and midges at bay. We enjoyed “virtual drinks” with our friends Jo-Anne and Ian before dinner outside. 

Rugged Orpheus Island

Next morning we lifted the anchor at 7am and continued down the channel, heading back into the swell and bouncing across past Dungeness and the long sugar jetty at Lucinda, on our way to Orpheus Island, glad to only have a short stretch of choppy seas as we crossed the water. There were several boats already at Pioneer Bay, but we spotted a free mooring bouy and were going to take it, however our friends Ian and Angela, on Marookatta, rang to say there was a spare mooring near them, in Hazzard Bay, just near the resort, so we opted to join them. The mooring was behind the hills so we were protected from the worst of the winds and it was easy to pick it up - we have a system; the first mate drives the boat while the Captain wields the boat hook and drags up the mooring rope. It works for us! Soon after, we took the dinghy across to say thanks for the heads-up and then motored ashore for a swim. It was half tide, though, and very shallow, so it was more like a paddle in a babies pool than “swim”. Back in the dinghy, we picked our way out between the coral bommies and around the corner to Yanks’ Jetty, where the water was deeper and we could get properly wet! Later in the day, Angela and Ian joined us on the flybridge for sundowners and we enjoyed a few laughs and swapped stories. A breeze persisted into the night, rocking us gently.

Wednesday was a “lazy” day, we started with exercises on the flybridge then went to the (much deeper at high tide) beach for a swim. Later we took the dinghy and ventured close to the (very exclusive!) resort, checking out the facilities from afar. We spent the late afternoon paddling around the bay in our kayaks, admiring the coral from above and being splashed by the rippling water - very cooling on a hot afternoon! An evening breeze was pleasant as we sat on the back deck gazing at the stars.

Acheron Island, Steamer Pass

Thursday promised lighter winds on our journey across to Townsville, although there was enough of a swell to be “interesting” but not unpleasant. The Captain dropped the mooring at first light (5:30am!) while the first mate enjoyed her morning cuppa in bed as we cruised out, then did her yoga while we still had the protection from the islands in the Steamer Pass, between Great Palm Island and the mainland. Three hours later we were in the lee of Magnetic Island and conditions settled down, an hour later we were tying up at Townsville Yacht Club marina.

Townsville Maritime Museum

Drinks with Chris, Townsville Yacht Club

We spent a week at the marina, mainly due to strong easterly winds, which would have made cruising and anchoring uncomfortable, but also to have a few essential maintenance jobs done and to restock the boat. We are fortunate to have Chris in town, he lent us his car, which allowed us to buy the maintenance goods we needed plus do some shopping in the suburbs of Townsville, the main city being devoid of many essential shops - there is a Woolworths and four op shops, but not much else. We also walked, caught up with friends, enjoyed dinner and a few drinks at the yacht club, as well as visiting the extremely interesting Maritime Museum. The nautical history on display there is fascinating and it takes hours to explore well. We were very glad we found the time to visit!

Busy Townsville Port, Ross Creek

Beautiful Horseshoe Bay

On Thursday morning, a week after we had tied up, we departed the marina, returning down the busy Ross Creek and out into the ocean again. There were a few lumpy waves but the cruising was relatively easy and we anchored in Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island, just before 11 o’clock. I have written before about how much we love Horseshoe Bay; the scenery is beautiful, the small township has everything we need, and there is a great bus service to take us further afield to dine, shop or walk. This time, we did very little while we were here, we swam, we kayaked, we did a short walk through the wetlands and along the beach, we had sundowners ashore, we met other Boaties and swapped stories, we relaxed. All very pleasant!

Leaving our mark at Maggie

Sunset, Upstart Bay

On Sunday, our plan was to go to the markets, either host Chris for lunch or go by bus to Picnic Bay for lunch, maybe have a paddle in the kayak, have a swim or two. We planned to continue cruising south on either Monday or Tuesday. BUT!! The Captain woke that morning to a changed weather forecast, with a windy week ahead. It was leave now or next weekend! So we hoisted the dinghy, secured all the loose items, made a course plan and left by 7am, bound for Cape Upstart for one night and then on to the northern Whitsundays. Conditions were not perfect, with a persistent swell and lumpy seas, which continued throughout the day. At around Cape Cleveland we passed the spot where, three years earlier on the same date (11th October), we had headed north from Cape Bowling Green to Magnetic Island! What great memories. Finally, after 6pm, as the sun sank behind the horizon, we arrived at Cape Upstart and dropped the anchor, enjoying pizzas for dinner before a well earned sleep.

Before Sunrise, Cape Upstart

Big coal ships at Abbot Point!

With the wind forecast to increase as the day went on, Monday started with the anchor raised at 5.15am! It is different travelling south, not only is the land on the right, the sun is in front, shining in through the large front window and warming up the cabin very quickly. On days at sea, when the waves splash water on the side windows, it can be quite a challenge to stay cool without getting wet! We passed close to Abbot Point, where two large coal ships were anchored, as we ate our breakfast, then rounded the cape into Edgecumbe Bay and headed south, choosing Cape Gloucester over Bowen as our destination, picking up a mooring outside the eco resort just after 1pm. We are now in the northern Whitsundays and we look forward to relaxing and exploring in the coming days, knowing that our patience - and flexibility! - has served us well.

Captain’s log: Dunk Island to Cape Gloucester 

Distance travelled: 218.1 nautical miles

Fuel: 273.5 litres

Travel time: 37 hours 10 minutes

Fuel economy: 1.254L @ NM

Migrating south

4 mile beach, Port Douglas

Never smile at a crocodile!

We have always loved Port Douglas, from our first visit together in 2003 to celebrate (with the other directors) 10 years of Valcor, to our honeymoon in 2010 and our 2017 cruise north. It is a lovely, friendly town with lots to see and do. When we arrived here on 21st July, we imagined many cruises out and around the north tropical waters, with visits to Port Douglas in between. Instead, we had only one cruise north, and many road trips out and around far North Queensland as we waited for the winds to ease! It has all been lovely, and in our last week there we managed to collect two kayaks, take a Daintree River croc spotting cruise compliments of friends, Jill and Alan, have dinner out twice, lunch with boating friends, a romantic night at Palm Cove and to restock the boat ready for travel. 

Lunch with friends, Palm Cove

Farewell, Port Douglas

Two months after we arrived, it is time to be starting the migration south again. We untied the lines on Sunday, 20th September. Our first stop was the Low Isles, a perennial favourite, where we were pleasantly surprised to pick up a courtesy mooring. We were keen to try out our kayaks, our wedding anniversary present to each other (so we “don’t rock the boat” - get it??), and we spent hours paddling around over reefs and shallow sandy beds, into the mangrove lined creeks of Woody Isle and across to the beach at Low Isle for a swim. Conditions were perfect; a slight breeze, no waves, sunshine - we were amazed there weren’t more boats around. 

Low Isles

Trying out our kayaks

On Monday morning we let the mooring go and headed east, nine nautical miles offshore, to Tongue Reef. The wind and waves picked up as we were cruising and we entered the U shaped reef with some trepidation as the sun was in front of us and it was difficult to see where the coral was amongst the deeper waters. We dropped anchor not far off the reef and had a cuppa, contemplating our plans - the wind and waves made kayaking or snorkelling unappealing! With no sand cay to walk on or swim off, we decided it didn’t offer what we were looking for, so we retreated back to the Low Isles where our mooring was still available and the conditions were more kayak-friendly! All the tour boat operators visited that day, with people snorkelling, paddle boarding and even kite surfing - it was busy during the day but we returned to peace and tranquility as the sun set.

Michaelmas Cay

Tuesday morning saw us drop the mooring just after sunrise, ready to begin heading south. Once we left the protection of Low Isles the conditions were “lumpy”, with short, sharp waves on the bow. We arrived at Michaelmas Cay just before lunch and paddled ashore in our kayaks for a swim. It was a bit wavier than we were used to, with a current running out, so it was hard work to get in but easier on the way back! There was a large tour group ashore, snorkelling and photographing the multitude of terns who call the island home. While there were less birds than last time we were here, they were still quite noisy!! After lunch and a relaxing afternoon, when the tour boat had left, we dropped the dinghy in the water and went ashore for a lovely swim - the water is clear and warm. We enjoyed a beautiful tropical night 20 nautical miles offshore, and the first mate even attended “virtual” 40th birthday drinks with a group of Melbourne friends!

Foxy's @ Fitzroy Island

We started Wednesday morning with our exercise routine, then went ashore for a well deserved swim before breakfast. We cruised on soon after, across to Vlassoff Cay, where we had a cuppa then jumped in the dinghy to go ashore, where a helicopter had landed on the island and set up an umbrella for a bit of shade. However with the tide dropping and no clear way through the coral, we abandoned that idea, returning to the boat and lifting the anchor, making our way to Green Island for lunch, then moving on again to Fitzroy Island, a perennial favourite. We kayaked ashore for a swim and a walk, returning to Manookatoo to freshen up, drop the dinghy in the water and head over to Foxy’s Bar for sundowners.

The summit, Fitzroy Island

Farewell our friends!

Next morning, after breakfast, we kayaked ashore with our shoes and water bottles for the summit walk, a difficult uphill climb up through the rocks. Fortunately we had a breeze and were in the shade for most of the way up! After reviving ourselves at the summit we picked our way down a rockier path to join the road to the lighthouse. Here we could see all the coral reefs and sand cays to the east of the island, somewhere we are keen to explore tomorrow. We returned to the shore via the old, concrete road, quickly jumping in the water to cool off. It was very shallow and rocky as the tide was low so we didn’t stay in for long, padding back to the boat for a cuppa and a well earned rest! In the afternoon we watched as our friends on Tranquility Base arrived, and later we met Yvonne and Andrew for sundowners at Foxy’s. They, too are heading south, but at a faster rate than us, so we probably won’t see them again on our travels.

Anchored amongst the coral!

After another lovely, peaceful night, we raised the anchor and headed due east, to check out Sudbury Reef. Conditions were perfect for the short, ten nautical mile cruise, and we were lucky to get a mooring there. We put our snorkelling gear in our kayaks, dropped them in the water and paddled ashore, walking around the sand cay before hitting the sea to check out the coral. There was quite a strong current, which made snorkelling a challenge! Returning to the kayaks and paddling back to Manookatoo, we unhitched the mooring and headed south west, stopping midway for lunch and reaching Normanby Island later in the afternoon, just as the tour boat was leaving. 

Normanby Island

We cheekily took their mooring, knowing they wouldn’t return until tomorrow! As it was further out, we went to shore by dinghy, walking around the southern half of the island and taking the boardwalk through the mangroves and rainforest to the eastern side. We returned again to shore for sundowners, appreciating the quiet and stillness with only one other boat nearby and nobody else onshore.

An early start!

On Saturday morning we made an early start, cruising past the Johnson River (Innisfail) and Mourilyan Harbour, rounding Purdaboi Island and picking up a mooring at Dunk Island in time for lunch. Many boats, both large and small, were here, and the camping areas are full as it is school holidays. Ski boats and jet skis whizzed around and even the Police boat was anchored there for a while. It was very busy after the quiet of yesterday! Later in the afternoon we went ashore for a swim and then back for sundowners, but there are plenty of March flies around so the aerogard was necessary! Marookatta, with friends we had made at Lizard Island, arrived late in the afternoon and we made plans to catch up the next morning. We enjoyed a three course dinner on the back deck that evening, enjoying calm seas and balmy conditions.

A long way to paddle!

Ian and Angela, Marookatta

After our morning swim on Sunday, we visited Angela and Ian on Marookatta for morning tea and to catch up on their adventures at Lizard Island. There had been a crocodile attack since our time there, a shock as it is so far from the mainland! We were glad we had snorkelled and swum there before this happened - we may not have been so keen now! It was lovely to see them again and swap stories, hopefully we will meet up a few times as we are heading in the same direction. Later, as they raised their anchor and headed off, we paddled the kayaks ashore and walked to Muggy Muggy beach. We had planned to swim there but the low tide and coral underfoot, coupled with aggressive March flies, had us returning to Brammo Bay. In the afternoon we tackled a longer kayak trip across to Purdaboi Island, where we had a refreshing swim before the long paddle back.

It has now been over a week since we started our southerly journey. We have loved being back on the water again and only hope that the benign weather continues for a little longer as we continue cruising.

Captain's log Port Douglas to Dunk Island:

Distance travelled - 150 NM

Fuel - 151.8 litres

Travel time - 26 hours, 20 minutes