Adventuring by land and sea

Having completed our “must do” cruise to Lady Musgrave Island, our thoughts turned to plans for the foreseeable future, mindful that we have trips to make to southern states in the months to come. It was time to move ourselves to a more accessible southerly base. As “Vanooka” was also in Bundaberg, we decided the time was right for a land based trip, but first we had COVID injections (Astra Zeneca, of course!) and shopping to restock supplies, both in the boat and the caravan, as we will have no easy transport options once the car goes.

By Friday, 14th May, we were ready to go, hitching the van onto the car and driving through Bundaberg, first stop, Seventeen Seventy! We had hoped to visit there by boat, but the bar is quite tricky except in high tide (even though Captain Cook had managed it!), so we settled for the driving option. The town itself is quite small, just a pub, a general store and the marina; Agnes Water is more populous but also not very big. We couldn’t get into the campground in town, which, as it turned out, was very small and with a very tidal beach, instead opting for the park 4km out of town, with a walkway through to the beach and lovely surrounds. We spent the day exploring the area, with walks to the lookout and to Cook’s landing at 1770 and the Paperbark Forest walk at Agnes Water, across stepping stones through the marshes and between the trees (quite beautiful!) with a sunset drink at the 1770 pub, watching the tourist boat return from Lady Musgrave as the tide rose and the sun sank. 

Next morning we were off again, crossing the Bruce Highway at Miriamvale and heading west. The road was quite winding and very steep, with signs warning about taking care with caravans, but the Pajero was up to the challenge of towing Vanooka up and down the hills and we arrived at Monto late morning, buying a few supplies for the next couple of days before continuing on to Cania Gorge. We stayed at the campgrounds right on the edge of the national park, enabling us to walk to almost all the trails. Over the next few days we visited all the highlights, marvelling at sweeping views and rock formations, waterways and cultural sites. The weather was beautiful and sunny by day, but the temperature dropped considerably each night! Lucky we were warm and snug in our caravan.

   

 We continued our travels on Tuesday, with a night in Kingaroy and a visit to the local museum, learning all about peanut production and buying some (very expensive!) local produce, seeing very little reference to that famous local, Joh, apart from a couple of photos. Next day we followed the Burnett Highway into Brisbane, returning to the Newmarket Caravan park. Thursday was “Boat show” day, so we drove to the Gold Coast for a day filled with all things nautical, admiring all sorts of beautiful craft! On Friday we caught the bus into town, wandering the streets, enjoying lunch at Southbank and catching the “Kitty Cat” ferry along the river. On Saturday Kirsty joined us and we drove up to Bribie Island, with fish and chips for lunch by the beach. We are leaving Vanooka in Brisbane for now, so on Sunday morning Kirsty drove us to Roma Street railway station, from where we had a pleasant train trip back to Bundaberg and Manookatoo. We are lucky to have such a choice of holiday “homes”!

We spent Monday and Tuesday preparing the boat for departing Bundaberg Port; filling the water and fuel tanks, stocking up on perishables, checking out the weather and our inventories and planning our route. We left the marina on Tuesday afternoon for a night on anchor in the Burnett River, enjoying the serenity and solitude away from others. On Wednesday morning, at first light, we started the engines, pulled up the anchor and headed out to sea. Conditions were perfect - hardly a breath of wind, lightly rolling waves - as we cruised across the water towards Fraser Island. We cruised straight across Hervey Bay to Rooney Point, waiting until the water shallowed enough and dropping anchor just south of there for delicious prawn sandwiches for lunch. The waves were rolling right across the bay, with the occasional larger one making conditions a little more uncomfortable than what we like, so after lunch we decided to continue cruising, following the sandy shoreline around towards Moon Point, where we anchored for the night in the lee of a sandbank. As the sun set, the super moon rose, and we watched, delighted, as the eclipse of the sun turned it blood red. We had the perfect spot for viewing!

On Thursday morning, when the captain checked the weather forecast, he read that the wind was freshening and turning slightly west, not good for where we were anchored. So, with the first mate still in bed enjoying coffee and the news, he lifted the anchor and we cruised further along the Fraser Island coast, turning south after Moon Point and entering the Great Sandy Straits. While the first mate rose and did her yoga routine, we were passing Big Woody Island, heading for the Kingfisher Bay Resort where we anchored for breakfast. Later in the morning we put the kayaks in the water, paddling over to the shore and walking along in front of the resort. There are lots of people around, a far cry from last year, when everything was closed. Returning to the boat, we enjoyed a leisurely day, taking the dinghy over to the resort again just before sunset and enjoying a drink at the sunset bar, marvelling at the pleasure of looking out across the water as day turned into night.

Overnight the wind increased, rocking us around a little, so, early on Friday morning, we repeated the actions of the day before, raising the anchor and continuing south along the Great Sandy Straits. Later that morning we entered the narrow channel beside South White Cliffs, watching the depth diminish below the boat before we reached the lagoon just near Yankee Jack Creek, a waypoint marked the year before giving us the confidence to go so far in. We anchored in 12 feet of water just on high tide, happy to be out of the wind and all on our own. While the tide was still high we went for a ride in the dinghy, exploring a couple of waterways lined with mangroves and entering Yankee Jack Creek to plan for further adventures. Later in the afternoon, when the tide was low, we kayaked across for a walk on the sand cay and reminisced; this was a regular “go to” spot during last year’s lockdown, when walking on Fraser Island was prohibited! Sand crabs scurried about as we walked, making the most of the diminishing waters. Returning to Manookatoo, we enjoyed “virtual drinks” with our friends Jo-Anne and Ian before a still and quiet night. We didn’t move on Saturday, preferring the solitude of our lovely anchorage, venturing out for a dinghy ride all the way to the top of Yankee Jack Creek at high tide and lazing the rest of the day away. We observed many yachts making their way north along the Great Sandy Straits; it is certainly the time of year for following the warmth!

On Sunday morning we took our time over breakfast, waiting for the tide to come in, before we slowly headed out through the narrow, shallow channel and turned left, crossing the “hump” in the straits where the tides meet at maximum height, before continuing past the houses of Stewart island and turning into Garry’s Anchorage. This is a popular spot with Boaties and there were quite a few here before us! There is also a campground ashore and we enjoyed exploring the tracks on Fraser Island while we were there. Shortly after breakfast on Monday morning, with the tide rising, we raised the anchor again and cruised out, heading south. We passed the entrance, the Wide Bay Bar, shortly after midday, observing the whitecaps across the water, highlighting the swell and dangerous conditions out there. We continued on down the channel and into Tin Can Bay, tying up at the marina just after 1.30 for a late lunch and a restful afternoon. We walked up to the shopping centre and had a late afternoon drink at the local pub before returning to the boat for dinner.

Winter begins tomorrow and the weather reflects that - in a Queensland way! We have burrowed under the bed to exchange singlet tops, shorts and swimwear for jumpers and long pants. While we are not heading to warmer parts this year, we are happy to be on the water and enjoying our surrounds. As the swell offshore is continuing to soften, we will spend a few more days in the Great Sandy Straits before we cross the bar and continue on towards Brisbane and the Gold Coast, our winter getaway for this season.

The Captain's Log - Bundaberg Port to Tin Can Bay

Distance travelled:  125.4 nautical miles

Fuel consumption:  121 litres

Average fuel consumption: 0.97 litres @ nautical mile

Travelling time:  20 hours, 35 minutes

Manookatoo 2021: the adventures begin again

On the “hard”

Back in the water at last

Crossing the road!

After a longer-than-anticipated hiatus from cruising, in late April we towed the caravan north into Queensland, visiting friends in Surfers Paradise and spending the first mate’s birthday with Kirsty in Brisbane, before we reached Bundaberg, where Manookatoo was perched “on the hard” at the marina. The captain spent the next two days busily scrubbing and painting her underside, while the first mate made a start on the inside, before early Friday morning, when she was hoisted onto the travel lift and gently lowered back into the water. After more maintenance and cleaning, and a “shakedown” cruise up the Burnett River, the weather was fine and we were ready to set sail! 

Bundy Rum factory

Anchored in the Burnett River

A lovely place for seafood

The channel into the lagoon 

We woke early on Wednesday 5th May and dropped the lines, cruising out of the heads and north-east across the ocean. Conditions were a little bit rolly, with a few white caps on the waves, but we had put all loose items away and Manookatoo handled it beautifully. Just before 3pm, on a high tide, we followed the channel markers into the Lady Musgrave Island lagoon and, with the first mate keeping a sharp eye out for bommies from the front and the captain steering from the flybridge, we picked our way between the coral and over to the anchorage. The colours and clarity of the water were incredible! Twelve other boats, of all shapes and sizes, were here already. We were very pleased to get some “limited” internet reception, and to pick up Marine Rescue Bundaberg on the two-way radio. It’s reassuring that we can keep an eye on the weather and know if anything changes. As night descended, the wind picked up, and by bedtime it was blowing 25-30 knots; no matter, we were snug and safe on anchor and, apart from some wave slap, undisturbed by the conditions. 

Lady Musgrave Island

The beautiful island forest

Debris from wild weather!

The wind continued for most of the next morning but was abating by midday, so we put the tender in the water and headed over for a walk on the island. A coral border surrounds the sand, but we found a clear patch to anchor and come ashore, enjoying a walk through the green and verdant vegetation to the other side and following the sand around the shoreline and back to the boat. As the day wore on the wind died away completely and we enjoyed a calm, relaxing afternoon and evening.

Turtle!

Happy castaways!

The next few days were spent relaxing and enjoying our surroundings. A mooring very close to the coral reef became available and we took advantage of it to make exploring even easier. We got the kayaks down and spent time paddling around a couple of bommies, amazed at the range and size of the corals. As the wind died completely and the lagoon became a millpond, we donned the snorkel gear and swam over to the nearest bommie, circumnavigating it, marvelling at the colours of the beautiful corals, particularly along the edges, and surrounded by fish of every size and colour. We took the dinghy across to the edge of the lagoon, where waves crash into the coral outside, and explored the depths, seeing big turtles, stingrays and a huge array of fish. We also circumnavigated the inner island, both on foot and in the kayaks, enjoying a refreshing swim after both of those exertions. All in all, our five days at Lady Musgrave Island was everything we had hoped it would be.

Millpond conditions

Beautiful sunsets every night

On Monday morning, after sunrise, we dropped the mooring and headed out through the entrance again. The captain had made a track as we came in, so it was easy to follow that path out and know there were no coral bommies to worry about! The sea conditions were a little “lumpy” for the first few hours but the waves settled after a while and we enjoyed an easy cruise across to Burnett Heads, where we followed the channel markers in and beyond the sugar loading facilities, anchoring in the river for the night.

Sunrise on the lagoon

Early morning departure

Stowaway!

Back into Burnett Heads

Right on high tide, a large ship manoeuvred into position alongside the molasses loading terminal, but no sound disturbed our calm night on anchor. The next morning, a heavy fog had descended, making visibility "interesting". We raised the anchor, and as we passed the molasses tanker we could see the funnel shaped pipe carrying molasses (used to make stock feed, a big industry in this sugar-rich area) into the bowels of the ship. We entered the marina just after 9am, tying up on the jetty ready to wash the boat, do the laundry and enjoy a few "land based" days.

Molasses ship at the terminal

 

The Captain's Log:

Distance travelled - 112 Nautical Miles

Fuel consumption - 149.7 litres

Travelling time - 17.05 hours

Average speed - 6.56 knots

Farewell for 2020

Soon after Manookatoo reached Rosslyn Bay Marina in Yeppoon, the first mate flew south from Rockhampton to be with family in Sydney. The Captain wrote himself a long list of jobs, top of which was getting a new gearbox for the anchor! Fortunately supplies were delivered quickly and he was able to have a working anchor winch again within a couple of days. With border closures between Sydney and Queensland continuing, it was obvious that the first mate would not be returning to the boat in the foreseeable future, so cruising plans changed into boat storage plans, and the decision was made to get the boat to Bundaberg for the summer, avoiding cyclone prone areas and keeping the boat secure.

 

After a few days of windy conditions, a small weather “window” opened on Saturday and the Captain decided to take it, leaving Rosslyn Bay at first light and turning south, reaching The Narrows as the wind increased and cruising over the Ramsey Cattle Crossing as the tide was almost high. He continued on to Gladstone Public Jetty to catch up with our friends Andrew and Yvonne, before anchoring at Sheoak Island for the night. On Sunday, he moved to a perfect cove to protect Manookatoo from the winds blowing up to 25 knots, anchoring off Tide Island. On Monday morning he tied up for a few hours near Gladstone Marina, filling up the water tanks and catching up with friends Ruth and Peter for a quick chat, before walking into town for a few groceries, returning to Manookatoo to anchor off Sheoak Island again before lunch.

Leaving at first light

Aeroplane Beach

 

The wind finally settled on Tuesday so the Captain was up and ready at first light (4.30 am), leaving the protection of Curtis Island and continuing south, reaching Pancake Creek by 10am. The trip was a little "lumpy", with a 20 knot wind developing against an outgoing tide. Eighteen boats were anchored in the creek, all waiting for enough of a break in the rolling seas in order to continue south! After setting the anchor he dropped the dinghy and went ashore for a walk along the sand. Later that afternoon, quite a few Boaties gathered on the shore to enjoy sundowners and a good chat. On Wednesday it was time for exercises, followed by a refreshing swim, which included washing around the waterline! After breakfast he headed ashore again, walking along the bush track towards the lighthouse, then detouring onto the track to Aeroplane Beach and back to the creek via the rocky shore. He caught up with a couple of ex-members of Yaringa Mariners Club, Westernport Bay, where Manookatoo was berthed when we first got her, and enjoyed drinks on their 59 foot yacht.

“The family”

 

Thursday dawned clear and calm, so many of the boats on anchor in Pancake Creek made the most of the conditions to raise anchors and head south. Manookatoo and the Captain had plenty of company as they cruised along, entering the Burnett River just after 2pm, fuelling up and finding a berth at the marina soon after. Later that afternoon he enjoyed farewell drinks with Yvonne and Andrew on Tranquility Base; they continue cruising south tomorrow and will be taking our “family” of plants with them as we can’t enjoy them any more; this is our final destination for this year.

Slipped for summer "on the hard"

 

The next three days were spent preparing Manookatoo for the summer: emptying cupboards and fridges of perishable foods, cleaning all the walls and doors, spraying anti mould solutions on all surfaces, placing water absorbing containers and moth balls in nooks and crannies and containers filled with diluted vinegar (to kill any mould spores) in every room. Bedding was washed, mattresses aired, windows were cleaned and even the toilet was wrapped in gladwrap! He also found time for drinks and dinner with friends, bus trips to Bundaberg and a few local walks. On Monday morning the boat was lifted out of the water and had her bottom cleaned of any weed and grime before she was moved into storage “on the hard”. The captain flew out of Bundaberg airport on Monday afternoon, bound for Brisbane and the Gold Coast, then Sydney and finally Melbourne - our wonderful northern cruise is over for this year, but we will return in 2021!!

The Captain’s Log: Rosslyn Bay to Burnett Heads

Distance travelled: 140.6 nautical miles 

Fuel consumption: 163.4 litres

Travelling Time 27 hours 40 minutes

Farewell Whitsundays, hello Keppels

Beautiful Turtle Bay

We love the Whitsundays; the crystal clear blue water, the beautiful secluded islands and inlets, the amazing sea life. It has always been a favourite destination of ours. Leaving the Port of Airlie Marina late on Sunday morning, we headed east towards Whitsunday Island, stopping for lunch at the edge of Gulnare Inlet, then continuing on into Turtle Bay, a beautiful expanse of water with lots of little beaches between rocky outcrops. Soon after anchoring we dropped the kayaks in the water, keen to explore the beaches more closely and paddling around from one to another, greeting other Boaties on each beach we visited. It was a glorious afternoon and the water was too inviting not to go swimming! Returning to Manookatoo for showers and sundowners, we made pizzas for dinner. Our intention had been to eat them in front of the TV, watching the NRL grand final, but we had no reception, relying instead on patchy radio coverage and occasional text messages from Julie, in Melbourne, to find out the score! It was good to hear that Melbourne won, anyway.

On Monday morning we raised the anchor and headed out to the edge of the bay, where we could see Hamilton Island, so that we could check the weather and make a few phone calls. That done, we returned to our previous position deep in the bay and relaxed the rest of the day away, with a couple of kayaking trips and swims to keep us active.

Sunset over Dent Island

Hamilton Island Marina

We decided that it is about time to start moving south, but, for “old times sake” a night at Hamilton Island was in order, so on Tuesday morning we raised the anchor and took the short trip across the bay. As we are planning long trips in the days to come, we bought some fuel before going to our berth. After securing the boat we headed ashore to explore, checking out the shops and taking the courtesy bus across to the main resort. While there are many tourists around it is nowhere near at capacity, and almost half of the stores and restaurants are “closed until further notice”. We had a drink at the Tavern before lunch, then later we packed our iPads and swimmers and walked across to the resort to while away the afternoon by the pool. That evening we returned to the Tavern for a lovely meal on the top deck overlooking the marina.

Coppersmith Light Station

Thunderstorms passing by

On Wednesday morning we decided on a walk - up the very steep hill and down the other side, along the foreshore and back to the boat - it was only a few kilometres but boy, was it steep! We were quite envious of the golf buggies whizzing past us as we huffed and puffed upwards. After a reviving breakfast we took our “Granny trolley” and walked to the IGA for a few last minute supplies, then we filled the boat with water, untied the lines and bade farewell to Hammo,  cruising down Dent Passage and across towards Lindeman and Shaw Islands, stopping in the beautiful Billbob bay, on the southern side, for lunch, then continuing on. This southern part of the Whitsundays is much less visited but no less beautiful, you could spend a month cruising the area and not reach every anchorage. Mid afternoon we passed Coppersmith Rock, with its very modern new age lighthouse, before rounding Goldsmith Island and dropping anchor in Stingray Bay. We had intended kayaking to shore and having a refreshing swim, however the wind got very gusty and we decided against that plan, choosing to relax for the afternoon. As a precaution, the Captain put out over 50m of anchor chain - enough to keep us well and truly in place! The wind continued into the evening and we watched thunderstorms pass just north of us, continuing on to the coast with an amazing lightning show before dying away to calm clear conditions after dark.

ROCKS!!

We woke on Thursday to glassy seas and blue skies - perfect conditions for cruising. We raised the anchor just before 6am and continued south. The rocky outcrops - both large and small - are quite spectacular (and dangerous!) in this part of the Whitsundays and it pays to keep a close eye out at all times; not all of them have navigation warnings on them. Not all are above the water, either, which is why you must also keep an eye on the GPS! Conditions were very calm; the first mate enjoyed her yoga session and, after breakfast, made sausage rolls for lunch! It was too lovely not to make the most of it so we continued past our planned destination, Scawfell Island, on towards Double Island, however we didn’t think it offered us much beach to swim on nor much protection if the wind got up at night. We finally anchored at Digby Island just after 4pm, dropping the kayaks in the water and paddling ashore for a walk. The rolling waves made for an “interesting” paddle, particularly when returning to the boat - by the time we got back the kayaks were half filled with water! The waves continued rolling us around well into the night, encouraging the first mate to choose the couch in the saloon over the bed in the cabin for sleeping.

We woke quite early the next morning, the rolling waves had continued all night and we were eager to get away from the swell. Some islands seem to attract choppy, confused seas particularly at tide changes, but once we were away from the anchorage things settled down a bit - not as smooth as yesterday though. A change of plans has us speeding up a bit, getting to the Keppels by Saturday night instead of taking the slow meandering cruise via some more islands, so the Captain increased Manookatoo’s speed and we headed south, passing a couple of previous destinations, rounding Cape Townshend and  anchoring in Pearl Bay. There were no other boats there - a big contrast to our last stop, in late May. Conditions were also calmer than at Digby Island, however a recalcitrant anchor winch had the Captain manually lowering the anchor while the first mate manned the controls. As the sun set and the full moon rose, we enjoyed coral trout for dinner on the back deck and retired to bed.

Thank goodness for friends!

An early start was in order on Saturday as we still had quite a distance to cover and the wind was forecast to get up as the day went on. Once again the captain manually raised the anchor while the first mate slowly drove forward to his instructions - he needs no more exercise at the moment as pulling up heavy anchor chain and a much heavier anchor is very hard work! We headed out of Pearl Bay into rolly seas (fortunately we had secured everything before we left!) and turned southeast as the sun rose. Conditions settled a little once we passed Cape Manifold, however just as we reached Yeppoon the wind increased, making for an “interesting” entry to Rosslyn Bay harbour and into the marina berth! Luckily, friends Robyn and Dick were on hand to keep the boat off the jetty and help tie up. Phew! We made the most of the rest of the day to catch up on some much needed rest before hosting our friends for sundowners on the flybridge. 

Farewell, Kool Sid

The Singing Ship

Sunday was a much calmer day! We farewelled Robyn and Dick, on Kool Sid II, as they head north, then caught the bus to Emu Park and enjoyed a nice walk up to the “Singing ship” and around the foreshore before lunch at “The Piney” (Pine Beach pub), catching the bus back in the afternoon and then walking over to the beach for a late afternoon swim. Sunday night is (nearly!) always Pizza night, relaxing in front of the television before an early night.

Pebble Beach, Rosslyn Bay

Fan Rock, Rosslyn Bay

On Monday we enjoyed a morning walk up the hill to admire the view to Great Keppel Island and beyond, followed by a refreshing swim. After doing a few odd jobs we returned to the beach for another swim before lunch - temperatures are getting up and so is the humidity!

Manookatoo will remain in Keppel Bay Marina for the next little while, as the captain repairs the anchor winch and does another few small jobs on the boat and the first mate flies south to be with family. How long the boat is here and what the captain does next is a little bit up in the air at the moment; as Doris Day once said “Que Sera Sera, whatever will be, will be”!

The Captain's log: Airlie Beach to Rosslyn Bay

Distance - 241.2 nautical miles

Fuel Consumption - 298.4 litres (1.24 L per NM)

Travelling time - 36.25 hours (average speed 6.65 knots)