Floating around Fraser (the forbidden) Island

In these times of lockdowns and restrictions, we consider ourselves very lucky to be where we are. But “luck” comes about by circumstance, and had it not been for the accident two years ago and our own subsequent recovery, with restrictions (regular therapy and rehabilitation sessions, no going in the sun until after summer 2020), we would have cruised the northern tropical seas two years ago and returned to Melbourne at the end of 2018; and we would currently be in ISO in our house! So yes, we are very "lucky"…..

Tin Can Bay fishing fleet

Sunset, Tin Can Bay

We continue to explore the Great Sandy Straits and have found quite a few gems along the way. While Hervey Bay is the largest settlement in the region, at the southern end of the straits is Tin Can Bay, with an attractive little village to explore, a bike path along both sides of the peninsula and enough shops to get anything you need. There is a lovely marina not far from the town, but the anchorage near Snapper Point, the southern tip of the peninsula, is also very calm and picturesque. We spent a night at each place, making the most of the bike paths to explore and shop, and enjoying the sunset surrounded by other pleasure craft at the marina, then anchoring amongst other boats out in the bay admiring the lights of town. There is a large fishing fleet at Tin Can Bay but it is quiet there at present – with so many restaurants closed and export markets not operating, much of the business has dried up although the local co-op has a nice variety of seafood for sale.

Sand atoll at low tide

Two other anchorages we tried were Pelican Bay, just inside the Wide Bay Bar, and Fig Tree Creek. We had hoped to go ashore at Pelican Bay and maybe walk to Inskip Point on the other side, but the bay was too shallow from too far out to get near enough to shore to find a path. Fig Tree Creek had the opposite problem as it was quite deep until close to shore, and as Fraser Island is “off-limits” to within 100m of the low tide mark, finding water shallow enough to anchor here was tricky. Two nights back at South White Cliffs reminded us of the beautiful places to anchor along the straits; we ventured further into the lagoon between Fraser Island and the sand cay and were rewarded with calm conditions even when the wind was from the north-west. At low tide we enjoyed a couple of walks on the cay; this time ours were the only footprints on the sand.

Dinner!

When the wind returned to the South East and dropped to a very light breeze, we ventured towards the northern side of Fraser Island and Platypus Bay. Along here, we had been told, any wind from the west was trouble! As we rounded Moon Point on a calm morning, we noticed a lovely sand cay and island, where a couple of boats were moored, then further along another sand cay with a narrow channel between it and Hawk Nest Beach (on Fraser Island). It was perfect for anchoring and as the tide dropped and the sand cay widened we took the dinghy ashore for a swim and a walk. This was too nice a place to leave! That night we could hear the dingoes howling – a reminder of how close we are to Fraser Island. Next morning we continued north-east, dropping anchor again near the Triangle Cliffs. The water is so clear you can see exactly where the anchor is and the beach is a long ribbon of white sand. This is the nursery for many humpback whales who migrate here to calve each spring. We are too early for them but there is plenty of other sea life to keep us entertained, from dolphins to turtles to stingrays and even the odd Banjo Shark (which looks like a ray but has fins!!). Later on, we took the dinghy further north, venturing into Lagoon Anchorage, the entrance to Wathumba Creek. A small trimaran was anchored here and we waved to the lone sailor before returning to our boat. Here, the captain tried his hand at fishing and landed several whiting in quick succession!

Walking along the atoll - low tide

Triangle Cliffs was a perfect anchorage and we stayed there for three nights - making the most of the benign weather conditions with a small breeze from the southeast. Even the insects seemed benign, although we continued with our repellant routine! After three nights we started heading west again, dropping anchor under Arch Cliffs, further along Fraser Island. The beach, with its long ribbon of white sand, looked very inviting, however we watched as several hapless boaties, anchoring much closer to the beach than us, went ashore and appeared to be setting up camp before two 4WDs of Rangers appeared! We couldn't tell what transpired, however after some lengthy discussion the rangers stood on the shore and watched as the boaties returned to their craft and cruised away. Our appetite for a walk on the sand immediately disappeared.

Sunset birthday drinks

Our own little island

Next day was the first mate's birthday! We cruised west, closer to phone and internet reception, dropping anchor at the island we had spotted several days earlier. Many daytrippers, prevented from visiting Fraser Island, appear to have decided this would be a reasonable alternative. With a grassy knoll and sand surrounding it, the island, at Moon Bank, also attracted a range of birdlife, from tiny sandpipers to pelicans. All flew off with noisy shrieks as we approached! As the sun set, the day trippers disappeared and we were left with our own private tropical island for sunset birthday drinks.

We will continue to explore Platypus Bay and the northern shore off Fraser Island while the weather remains benign and the wind stays from the south-east. We are well stocked with fuel, food, water - and alcohol! So we have no reason to head to port for now and will make the most of our "luck".