North to Townsville

Approaching George Point

Sunset, Edgecumbe Bay

Our stay in the Whitsundays was a (mostly) windy one and eventually, on the Sunday of the winter solstice, we gave up trying to visit the outer reef and headed north from Woodwark Bay. Apart from one lumpy section just before we rounded George Point, the wind and sea state worked in our favour and we made good time, passing through the Gloucester passage and around Shag Islet just after midday, picking up a mooring outside the Gloucester Eco Lodge. We made our way ashore soon after, and enjoyed a lazy lunch and an afternoon of music on the deck, looking over the water and contemplating our good decision making!

Sundowners, Gloucester Eco Lodge

Gloucester beach

Monday dawned sunny, clear and calm. After breakfast we took the dinghy ashore again for a long walk on the sandy shore. There were a few fishermen about and we could see holidaymakers in some of the waterfront cabins; it is good to see the area is opening up again. We enjoyed a lazy day, revelling in the warm conditions, heading over to the Eco Lodge again in the afternoon for a swim in the pool and a sunset drink. A quiet evening followed, watching Apple TV - no local reception here! 

Farewell Bowen

It was time for a short cruise on Tuesday across Edgecumbe Bay and into Bowen marina. We had enjoyed our last visit in 2017 and were keen to explore the town again. Unfortunately some of the shops were closed; whether permanently or due to current restrictions was unclear, but the town was certainly very subdued. We enjoyed lunch in the Larrikin hotel, one of only two venues open today, it was very pleasant sitting on the verandah enjoying the cool breeze. On Wednesday morning we walked the 2.8 kilometres to the local shopping centre to restock a few supplies, returning to the boat for an early lunch and then leaving the marina to refuel the tanks, something we had not done since Bundaberg. We cruised out past the North Point lighthouse and around Cape Edgecumbe into Queens Bay, where we dropped anchor for the night. There was a slight breeze and a small swell but we found the motion quite relaxing, and had no trouble sleeping that night!

Approaching Abbott Point

We raised the anchor at first light on Thursday morning, cruising out of Queens Bay in a rolling sea, making our way north past Abbott Point just as a ship was docking for coal loading. Two more ships were anchored offshore but it was nowhere near as busy as Hay Point to the south of Mackay. We rounded the rugged Cape Upstart, so named by Captain Cook because it is such a dramatic landscape. Entering Upstart Bay we followed the coastline and dropped anchor about halfway down the bay; it shallows quickly with a rocky shore so we were careful with choosing a suitable spot! After lunch we took the dinghy to shore, anchoring it off the sand so that it would still be floating after our walk, ambling along the sand and over rocks, through shallow inlets and past holiday shacks. The beach is largely made up of coral and we wondered where it originated from. We returned to Manookatoo and enjoyed lazing as the boat gently rocked in the sea.

Sunset, Cape Upstart

Sunrise, leaving Cape Upstart!

Another early start on Friday, with the plan to stop just before lunch at Cape Bowling Green; usually, we enjoy cruising in the morning and exploring in the afternoon. But Bowling Green Bay is quite different to Upstart: a long, flat spit of sand is all that protects you from the ocean and the bay itself is shallow, with many shifting sand bars. With fresh south easterly winds forecast, we wanted to be well in the bay for protection, requiring at least an hours’ cruising in (and back the next morning). As Magnetic Island is less than five hours north of there, we changed our mind and decided to keep going! The seas were calm and the sun was shining, making for a very pleasant day of cruising and we enjoyed pre-lunch nibbles and open sandwiches on the fly bridge as we watched the coastline go by. We rounded Cape Cleveland just before 4:00 and continued across the bay to Magnetic Island, dropping anchor in Horseshoe Bay just after 5pm. A magnificent sunset and a calm, relaxing evening convinced us we had made the right decision. The weather is glorious here and we intend making the most of it, reliving memories of three years ago, planning to repeat many of the walks we did then and maybe even explore a couple more.

Magical Magnetic Island

The Captain's Log:

Distance travelled: 146.1 nautical miles

Travel time: 22 hours 35 minutes

Fuel consumption: 146.5 litres