"Lazing" to Lucinda

We spent nine days in Townsville, with visits from Kirsty for two nights and the First Mate's parents for a week. It is always lovely catching up with family and exploring a new place makes it lots of fun! We toured the Jezzine barracks and the fascinating (and very detailed) war museum, drove up Castle Hill and along the northern beaches, visited Cotters Markets, filled up with fuel and food (and grog!) and dined out at a few nice venues. We also collect our mail, including a brand new inflatable rowboat! And we bought ourselves some Stinger Suits through Gumtree. All up, it was a great time, and the Townsville Cruising Yacht Club and its Marina is certainly very nice, right in the heart of town. 

Made it! Horseshoe Bay

On Monday, after we bade farewell to the parents, we dropped the lines and headed out of the marina and cruised back to Magnetic Island, returning to the beautiful Horseshoe Bay, where we dropped anchor. We put the new boat in the water and the captain rowed ashore, where we enjoyed a walk right around to the end of the bay, where we felt we had really earned a swim! Returning to the township, we relaxed with a refreshing drink at the Marlin Bar before rowing back to Manookatoo, where we enjoyed pizza on the back deck watching the lights of town twinkling in the distance. 

A rocky climb

Tuesday morning started with exercises and a swim before breakfast, then another row to shore, this time to walk across the ridge to the secluded Radical Bay. We were very hot by the time we arrived, so we really enjoyed the cooling swim before the walk back. Another well-earned swim, then the captain rowed us back to Manookatoo where we lazed the afternoon away! We watched the installation of a stinger net on the beach - November is the official start of the stinger season so they are getting well prepared, and with our new stinger suits we are ready too. 

Stinger-ready

Upwards to the Forts!

Wednesday saw us rowing to shore soon after breakfast for a bus trip to The Forts walk - 2.2km up the hill and back - complementing our visit to the barracks and museum in Townsville. It is fascinating to learn more about our recent history and experience it right where it happened. The walk was challenging enough for us, without carrying heavy equipment like army packs and such over rocky slopes! Returning to the bus stop, the captain suggested we walk to Arcadia instead of waiting - another challenging 2km expedition!! We trudged up and down the rocky hills, but the swim in the pool at the hotel (almost) made it worthwhile!! Returning to Horseshoe Bay and Manookatoo (by bus!) we had a very restful afternoon, after our very energetic morning. 

The view was worth the climb

Yanks Jetty

On Thursday morning, before the sun peeked over the hills, we raised the anchor to continue north, farewelling one of our favourite spots. Conditions were perfect, with no wind or swell, and we made good time, passing Palm Island and Fantome Island on our way to Orpheus Island. We spotted the empty Yanks Jetty, in the middle of a fringing reef, and squeezed between the poles to tie up, originally planning just to stay for lunch. We enjoyed an antipasto platter on the back deck, supplemented by salmon wraps given to us by friendly Americans staying at the local exclusive resort, who had kayaked around for lunch. Very nice! With beautiful beaches and reefs to explore, and no restrictions to staying on the the jetty, we decided to make this our overnight destination and properly secured the boat before taking a walk and snorkel on the beach. There is a lovely, new campground facing the water, with gas barbecue and hot plates, picnic table and composting toilet, it would be a perfect spot for "getting away from it all". As nobody was there, we were privileged to enjoy a peaceful afternoon. A beautiful sunset overlooking the water and the hills of the Queensland tropical coast followed. 

JCU research station

Friday morning it was time for exercises. Always a challenge on a rocking boat, we tried it on the jetty - a little more stable! A swim and breakfast followed, then we were off, bound north but not too far, passing the exclusive Orpheus Resort on our way. We anchored in Pioneer Bay, close to the James Cook University research facility and went ashore where Ashton, the acting station manager, took time out of her busy day to explain the work of the facility. They are preparing for an onslaught of researchers, coming to observe the coral spawning which is due to occur in the next couple of weeks. It is fascinating to see such a facility, and the large "coral bed" tank with its multitude of colorful corals and fish. We continued cruising along the coast of Orpheus Island, heading for Iris Point, where Ashton had told us the snorkeling was best. Unfortunately the mooring was missing, so we returned to Little Pioneer Bay,  picking up a mooring there and taking the brig ashore. The water is quite shallow for a long way out, but as the tide was rising we had no problems. This site also has camping facilities including a toilet, but no barbecue. We swam and snorkelled for a while, but the coral was pretty silted and grey, even though the fish and stingrays were very interesting. Later we cruised in the brig to explore coral in the centre of the bay - the captain ingeniously tied the brig to his leg while we snorkelled - it was just beautiful, lots of colour and different varieties, just what we've been looking for! High tide meant it was a fair way down, but we loved looking at it. Another lovely, lazy evening on the back deck followed before retiring early to bed worn out by the day's exertions. 

We have recently purchased and installed an opening insect screen on our back door - essential to keeping the inside cool and the insects outside! It's a godsend, however, on Saturday morning, as the boat pointed west and the sun rose, it was like a spotlight in our faces! Hence, we were up early, ready for our morning walk. There are no designated tracks at Little Pioneer Bay, but the first mate had done her research and found out about a walk to the "old shepherd's hut" and the hilltop, following plastic ribbons tied to trees, so we gave it a go. I think the "Shepherd" was probably a "Goatherd" as it is very steep and rocky and I doubt a sheep would survive! But sure enough, we found the old hut, and the view from the top of the hill, back to the bay or across to Palm and Fantome islands was worth the hike. Returning to the beach, we enjoyed a swim before returning to Manookatoo for breakfast. As the tide receded, we donned our snorkels and took our noodles, swimming across to the reef we had explored at high tide yesterday for a better look - and it was sure worth it, with the coral so much closer and the colours more pronounced, plus an abundance of beautiful fish and extraordinary clams. Oh for an underwater camera! By the time we returned to Manookatoo we were worn out from so much exercise, but after a reviving cuppa and another cooling swim, we enjoyed fish cakes for lunch before casting off the mooring to head across the bay. With a stiff northerly breeze it was a bouncy trip! We entered the channel past the 5km long conveyor belt that transports sugar to the waiting ships, eventually passing the terminal at Lucinda and entering the Hinchinbrook Passage, between the mainland and Hinchinbrook Island. With crocodiles in the region, there'll be no more swimming for the next few days, as we continue north.....

Lucinda sugar jetty - 5km long

The Captain's log: Townsville to Lucinda

Distance: 68.6 nautical miles

Fuel consumption: 77.3 litres

Duration: 12 hours 20 minutes

Travelling to Townsville

Cape Upstart anchorage was everything we could have hoped for on Monday night. We chose a spot along the coast with reasonably shallow water, tucked in behind the cape so that the easterly breeze didn't worry us. After lunch we took the dinghy ashore to walk along the sand, stopping to chat to one of the local holiday shack owners. With no roads to the coast, people access the many holiday houses by boat, mainly from Molongle Creek but also from the Burdekin River. Supplies to build the houses came by barge from Townsville or Airlie Beach, and the recently installed electricity poles and wires were installed by helicopter! It's a beautiful, remote haven. We enjoyed a couple of swims off the beach before returning to Manookatoo for the evening. While the slight breeze kept the weather from being too oppressive, our sheltered position ensured we slept in comfort.

Turtles in Bowling Green Bay

We woke early on Tuesday, refreshed and ready to continue our journey, across Upstart Bay and around Cape Bowling Green. There was only a slight rolling swell and with clear sunny skies the journey was very pleasant. We even attempted our exercise program in the morning - finding the balance exercises impossible but managing the rest even if we had to hold on occasionally! Unlike the rocky hills of Cape Upstart, Cape Bowling Green is a long, flat sandspit - at 14km it is the longest in the Southern Hemisphere. Captain Cook named it but the reason is unclear as there is not a lot of green - unless it was for the mangroves exposed at low tide at the end of Bowling Green Bay. We rounded the point at midday and dropped anchor just south, choosing sandy beaches over mangroves. We took the dinghy to shore for a walk along the hot sand followed by a refreshing swim. There are turtles everywhere - often in pairs and threes - and large sea slugs wallow in the shallows. As the day wore on two catamarans joined us in the bay - both heading south, as is almost every other boat we see - joining the migration home for summer. A beautiful sunset over the bay followed in another gorgeous, remote anchorage. 

Picnic Bay selfies

Wednesday heralded another early start, with the engine on and anchor raised before 5:30am. We seem to be having our own version of daylight savings! We crossed Bowling Green Bay on a slight swell, passing Cape Cleveland's beautiful lighthouse and cottages just after 9:00and heading across the bay to Magnetic Island. Townsville in the distance looks like a very busy city! We entered the Nelly Bay Harbour, tying up at the marina just after 11am. After checking in, we caught the bus to Horseshoe Bay for a swim and lunch at the pub, returning via Nelly Bay then onto Picnic Bay. Both bays are quite lovely - Picnic Bay was the original terminal for the ferry but is now a sleepy outpost with a great pub with a view, Horseshoe Bay is a lovely natural Harbour with beautiful beaches and is where most cruising vessels anchor. Most of Magnetic Island is a National Park, and with rugged rocky mountains tumbling down to the waters edge you can see its natural beauty. Returning to Manookatoo we enjoyed a delicious steak and prawns on the back deck, overlooking the restaurant at Peppers Resort.

The remote West Point

We "slept in" on Thursday, waking at 6am! We walked to Bright Point and along the esplanade then out to the end of the breakwater, admiring the engineering and technology that went into creating the safe Harbour. After breakfast we were on the move again, out of Nelly Bay and turning right - a circumnavigation of Magnetic Island. We passed Picnic Bay with its long, now disused jetty, then turned north, away from Townsville. We followed the coastline around to West Point, a small settlement accessible only by 4wd, where a dozen houses hug the coastline and a couple of fishing boats rested on the shore. We dropped the anchor and cruised ashore in the dinghy, walking along the beach and enjoying a swim before returning to Manookatoo for Bowen prawns for lunch - just as delicious as they were a week ago! As the sun set over the mainland to the west we enjoyed dinner on the back deck, admiring the lights of Townsville and the beautiful starry sky.

Horseshoe Bay from Manookatoo

On Friday morning we did our exercises on the Flybridge, followed by a well earned swim and breakfast, before we raised the anchor and continued our clockwise circumnavigation of Magnetic Island. We passed the lovely Five Beaches Bay, too swelly and/or shallow for us to stop, and rounded the headland into Horseshoe Bay, a popular anchorage for all manner of boats. We cruised past Fidelis, a beautiful yacht moored well out due to its 180ft length, and dropped anchor near the shore in 5 feet of water at low tide, a guarantee we would always have enough under the keel to stay afloat. We took the dinghy ashore for a walk along the beach, with a well earned swim at either end. Currently the water temperature is 25 and the air temperature is 30, so we are enjoying the water! We bought some Moreton Bay bugs for an entree for our Coral Trout dinner tonight - who says we don't eat well on the boat? - and enjoyed a relaxing afternoon with plenty of swimming and another walk ensuring we weren't total sloths. A lovely sunset and the lights of the village were the backdrop for another relaxing night aboard Manookatoo. 

Dusk at Horeshoe Bay

We raised the anchor just after 6:30 on Saturday morning, keen to complete our circumnavigation of Magnetic Island and reach our next destination. The seas were "lumpy" as we headed out of Horseshoe Bay, past the precariously balanced Orchard Rocks, but they settled as we headed east towards the mainland. The incredible, rugged beauty of Magnetic Island never ceases to impress. We cruised the 12 nautical miles to Townsville, travelling from rugged seclusion to well developed civilization in two hours, entering Ross Creek and passing the busy port, heading upstream and tying up at the Townsville Yacht Club Marina just before 9am. With the First Mate's family coming to visit for the next week, we look forward to getting to know the city and surrounding area well before we continue cruising north. 

Entering Townsville

The Captain's Log - Cape Upstart to Townsville

Distance travelled: 104 nautical miles
Travelling time: 16 hours 50 minutes 
Fuel consumption: 103.6 litres

The northern Whitsundays - bound for Bowen

The Cid Harbour anchorage was peaceful on Monday night, and we stayed outside enjoying the tranquility until bedtime. We woke refreshed on Tuesday, doing our exercises and rewarding ourselves with a swim before breakfast. Later, we raised the anchor and headed off, past the trawler MV Banks, washed up on the rocks, another victim of Cyclone Debbie and a reminder that conditions are not always so tranquil. We cruised across the Hook Passage and into Macona Inlet, passing many hired yachts full of families enjoying holidays aboard, with kayaks, standup paddle boards and other water play equipment galore. We anchored towards the northern end of the inlet then dived in to enjoy the water ourselves! With life as one long "holiday", we still never cease to get pleasure from the simple things.

A relaxed Captain

MV Banks

On Wednesday morning we enjoyed breakfast and a swim before moving again, cruising beside Hook Island, heading a little further north. We pulled up a mooring near Langford Island, where a coral reef and sand cay looked inviting. Donning snorkels and flippers, we dived in for a closer look, and were rewarded with our first view of "live", colorful coral. There was also a lot of evidence of what was destroyed by the cyclone, but it was lovely to see signs that this will improve over time as the coral regenerates. Langford Island is near Hayman Island, where work continues to restore and improve the resort ready to reopen. As the tide fell, the currents increased dramatically, so we swam (with great effort) back to Manookatoo and cruised over to Stonehaven, lucky to snare a spare mooring in the deep water. As the day progressed, boats came and went, and by dusk we counted over 30 boats moored or anchored nearby. The islands of the Whitsundays sure are popular!

Manookatoo from Gloucestor eco lodge

On Thursday morning the captain was up early, the engine on and the mooring dropped by 6:15. After two weeks in this area, and with lots more coast to explore, we farewelled the islands of the Whitsundays as we headed north-west. We passed Double Cone Island, Dingo Beach and Hideaway Bay before entering the Gloucester Passage, rounding Shag Islet and dropping anchor just near the Cape Gloucester Eco Lodge. After a refreshing swim we rowed the dinghy ashore and walked along the beach, checking out both resorts and enjoying a drink at Montes before returning to the Eco Lodge for a lovely lunch and wine overlooking the water and Manookatoo. Returning mid-afternoon we earned another swim after our rowing, then sat back and let the afternoon turn into evening, with a light dinner on the back deck overlooking the anchor lights of the neighboring boats.

Entering Bowen Harbour

Our intention on Friday morning was to anchor as close as possible to the beach, swimming to shore for a walk along the sand, however with misty rain and a cool breeze we changed our mind, lifting the anchor and cruising north across Edgecumbe Bay before 7am. We enjoyed breakfast on the way and arrived at the Port of Bowen just after 9:00, where we were lucky enough to get a berth at the North Queensland Cruising Yacht Club marina. We walked around the harbour to the seafood outlets, buying Endeavour prawns for lunch, then took a long walk into town, exploring the local shops, murals and beautiful quilt depicting the history and highlights of Bowen. We had planned a swim at the town beach but, at low tide, it is a long, muddy walk to the water, so we made do with a cool shower! A pleasant evening followed, watching the movie "Australia", where Bowen was transformed into wartime Darwin - a fitting choice, given our location.

Beautiful Horseshoe Bay

Revived after a swim

With the fish supplier so close, and the dinghy now finally working, the captain cruised over the marina early in the morning to buy some oysters for a Saturday night special dinner. Later, after breakfast, we took the bikes up into town, catching the bus to Rose Bay and doing the rugged bush walk to Horseshoe Bay. A reviving swim was much appreciated, followed by a cuppa at the local cafe before catching the next bus back to our bikes, doing some shopping and riding home. After an antipasto lunch we watched the yachts around us set sail for the afternoon races, then rode our bikes up to the Grandview Hotel, also featured in "Australia" the movie, for an afternoon ale. We returned to Manookatoo and prepared our delicious dinner, enjoyed on the back deck in the balmy conditions.

One of Bowen's many murals

Bike riding in Bowen

We set off early on Sunday morning, riding our bikes to the Queens Bay markets and being attacked by a few territorial magpies for our troubles! We purchased some vegetables from local farmers and returned to Bowen town to finish our purchases then ride back to the boat via the fish supplier, where we bought a kilo of headless prawns to freeze for other lunches! With work in Bowen on Monday, Kirsty drove up from Mackay and we enjoyed a lovely lunch with her and a workmate at the Grandview, followed by drinks at the Cruising Yacht Club for Kirsty and the first mate, while the captain watched the Bathurst 1000 and prepared the boat for tomorrow morning's departure. Farewelling Kirsty, we cooked our regular Sunday night pizzas and watched a bit of tv before bed.

Abbott Point coal loading facility

An early departure on Monday morning had us out of the Harbour and cruising past Queens Bay as the sun rose, having breakfast as we passed the Abbot Point coal loading facility, then rounding Cape Upstart and dropping anchor in Upstart Bay before lunch. The next few days are for cruising, with our next major port of call being Townsville. The weather looks promising and, with a few nights on anchor in the ocean, we hope for smooth seas and pleasant conditions!

Beautiful Bowen

Captain's log: Cid Harbour to Cape Upstart
Distance travelled: 103.8 nautical miles
Travelling time: 17 hours 55 minutes
Fuel consumption: 104.2 litres

Wandering the Whitsundays

Nara Inlet

After farewelling Kirsty at the Port of Airlie on Monday afternoon, we cruised out to Hook Island, arriving at Nara Inlet just before 5pm and anchoring in the busy bay just near the reef. With school holidays in three states, there were many charter boats around, but it was calm and peaceful on the water and we enjoyed a quiet night.

Tongue Inlet

Tuesday morning was time for exercises on the Flybridge! After a warm session in the sun we were both glad to hit the water for a cooling swim, then breakfast. Not long after that we raised the anchor, heading out of Nara Inlet and around the top of Hook Island. Passing Hayman Island but not wanting to go closer to yet another abandoned resort, we entered Butterfly Bay and pulled up a courtesy mooring near a reef. We donned the snorkels and flippers for another session, but found the coral here was not great, as it was also impacted by Cyclone Debbie. Later we enjoyed a sausage sizzle lunch, then dropped the mooring to continue around Hook Island, approaching but not stopping at Border Island, heading instead for Tongue Bay on Whitsunday Island, where we pulled up a mooring to stay for the night. With so many charter boats and tours around, it really feels like we have reached the Whitsundays - but we intend enjoying the "100 Magic miles" for the next week or two in spite of the crowds!

Whitehaven Beach

A stiff north easterly breeze made conditions a bit "rolly" for much of Tuesday evening and night, but by Wednesday morning the sea was much smoother. We dropped our mooring in Tongue Bay soon after breakfast and headed around Tongue Point to the beautiful Whitehaven Beach. While the tour boats favour the southern end, we dropped anchor right on the edge of the shallows at the northern end, rowing the dinghy ashore for a long walk along the beach. Whitehaven is famous for its pure white sand which, despite the evident devastation of felled trees and dead vegetation from Cyclone Debbie, remains as beautiful as ever. Returning to Manookatoo, we moved further up the beach, this time swimming ashore for a southerly walk, turning around when we reached the crowds. We swam back to the boat; hard work against the waves! After a cuppa we moved again, taking the Solway Passage around to Chance Bay and dropping anchor with the intention of not moving again today! Many boats, including a fleet of small half cabin cruisers, are moored here - Whitsunday Island sure is popular. We swam and lazed the afternoon away, enjoying watching other boaties - and seaplanes - maneuver for the best position in the bay. Another beautiful crimson sky rewarded us as the sun set.

Chance Bay

With limited opportunities for walking, we were ready for another exercise session on Wednesday morning, followed by a swim in the lovely, 24 degree water and breakfast as we watched the first seaplane of the day arrive. Soon after breakfast, the captain rowed the dinghy ashore - there is a problem with the outboard he is doing his best to fix. With marginal success, he returned to Manookatoo for a well-earned swim before we took the dinghy for a "test run" to the beach. The first mate decided to swim back to the boat - a distance much further than she thought!! Following a restorative cuppa, we raised the anchor to continue cruising, travelling 3 nautical miles to the next anchorage, Turtle Bay - so named because of the large population of giant turtles making the bay their own. We dropped anchor as close to shore as we dared, enabling us to swim to shore if we felt like it, which we did before lunch. We had intended cruising further after lunch, but were so taken by this location that we decided to stay, moving Manookatoo into deeper waters where we were a little further from the many other boats on anchor. We lazed and swam another afternoon away - it's a tough life on Whitsunday Island!

Gulnare Inlet

On Friday morning, after another swim and a lovely breakfast on the back deck, we raised anchor again, cruising out of Turtle Bay and into the Fitzalan Passage. We passed the high rises on Hamilton Island and picked up a mooring at Henning Island, rowing ashore for a walk along the beach and around the rocks before returning to Manookatoo for a swim. Henning Island is popular with tourists staying on Hamilton - they hire small runabouts for the trip across and snorkel in the shallows just offshore. Later, after lunch, when the tide was sufficiently risen, we dropped the mooring and headed into Gulnare Inlet, a deep, tidal estuary on Whitsunday Island. As the afternoon passed and the tide continued rising, other, larger boats entered the inlet, renowned as a "hidey hole" when the wind gets up, but also a pleasant place to stay in the lovely weather we are currently experiencing. Another peaceful night - still with marginal reception and therefore no television - was spent enjoying dinner and a bottle of red on the back deck.

With a footy grand final to watch on Saturday afternoon, the captain raised the anchor early and we headed west towards Airlie Beach, having booked a marina berth at Port of Airlie Marina. We arrived soon after breakfast, taking a walk through the bustling tourist strip checking out likely TV watching places and deciding on the Whitsundays Sailing Club. We secured a table on the deck, with views across the bay on one side and the TV on the other, enjoying a seafood platter for lunch - with the most enormous tiger prawns you could imagine! They must have been a good omen......there were only three others watching the game, so when half time came we moved camp, deciding that while "Magnums" is the busy backpacker venue, its outdoor screen and packed beer garden provided a lot better environment for cheering on the Richmond tigers to their first flag in 37 years. The First Mate was so excited! The noise at the end of the game was deafening, so after a few rounds of "We're from Tigerland" we headed back to Manookatoo, where the captain had thoughtfully recorded the game so we could enjoy the speeches and accolades in quiet comfort. We had champagne to celebrate and a delicious barbecue before retiring for the night.

Beer-hall Airlie style

Sunday was "housekeeping" day, so we packed up all our washing and headed to the laundrette early, returning to Manookatoo for breakfast and then grabbing the keys to the courtesy car. We visited Bunnings, Woolworths and BWS, then took a drive out to Shute Harbour, once the main port for the whitsundays region but now wrecked - devastated by the twin effects of Cyclone Debbie and the two new marinas and a cruise terminal built so much closer to town. Returning the car and unpacking our purchases, we ventured out on foot, checking out more of the town and enjoying a swim at the lovely lagoon on the foreshore - with the tide out it was a much more attractive proposition than the beach! We lazed the afternoon away, venturing out for a late afternoon drink at the local beer hall but deciding not to attempt a repeat evening at "Magnums" to watch the NRL grand final - the combination of an early start due to daylight savings (in the southern states) and being Victorians in North Queensland Cowboys territory convinced us that staying aboard and watching the game in peace was a much better alternative!

Another refreshing swim!

The sun is rising earlier than ever now and, with no daylight savings here, we were awake on Monday morning before 5am and ready for a long walk well before breakfast. We took the scenic walkway along the waterfront and around to Abell Point Marina, admiring many very large boats before returning to the lagoon for a refreshing swim. It is the Queen's Birthday holiday here today so even the supermarket doesn't open until 9am. After breakfast the captain had another attempt at fixing the dinghy outboard while the first mate bought a few last minute supplies, then when she returned we cast off our lines and headed east again. With cloudy skies and the occasional light shower, conditions are fairly humid, but once we cleared the mainland the breeze was pleasant as we cruised across to Whitsunday Island, reaching Cid Harbour and dropping the anchor just after 1pm. Lunch and a lazy afternoon - with a refreshing swim - enlivened our senses. We will spend the next few days visiting a few more of the beautiful bays, islands and inlets around the Whitsundays before we venture further north.

The Captain's Log
Distance travelled: 91.4 nautical miles
Fuel consumption: 93.9 litres
Cruising time: 15 hours, 55 minutes