Finally!

Sunset on the water

With a favourable weather window and a boat stocked with everything we think we need, we were ready to leave Port Douglas on Wednesday, 5th August. We untied the lines after an early lunch and headed north to Snapper Island, just 12 nautical miles north, securing the public mooring just near two fishing boats resting before their night’s work. This was the furthest we had been north in 2017 and we remembered the island with fondness. We lowered the dinghy and went ashore, landing between reefs and stumbling up the coral strewn beach. When last here, we had swum and snorkelled, enjoying the beauty under the water, but this time there was a sign on the beach warning of crocodiles, not surprising when we are so close to the mouth of the Daintree River, so we didn’t repeat that fun! We enjoyed sundowners on the flybridge before an early night.

Hope Island

The Captain was up before dawn the next morning, eager to continue north. He started the engines at first light, waking the first mate with a cup of coffee then dropping the mooring and motoring on. The sea was a little bit rolly but nothing too uncomfortable, and we enjoyed crumpets for breakfast as we cruised along. We passed Cape Tribulation, covered by low lying cloud, then the Bloomfield River and Endeavour Reef, where Captain Cook came to grief just over 250 years ago. We reached Hope Island and cautiously made our way through the coral to pick up a mooring just offshore, right on lunchtime. The weather closed in as the afternoon wore on, but we put on our raincoats and went ashore for an exploratory walk, meeting other Boaties as we wandered. It is always good to talk to like minded people and pick up hints and tips about the best anchorages and how to approach them. We were pleased also to have reception here and enjoyed watching TV using our internet, probably the last time we will have this opportunity in a while! Even though there had been some wind with the earlier rain it settled as the night wore on and we had a very peaceful night.

On Friday morning we dropped the anchor at first light and made our cautious way out through the reef again - fortunately the captain had made a track on the chart plotter on our way in so he had that to follow, but we also took it nice and slow until we were well clear. We continued north, passing Cooktown to our left, with whales frolicking in the water not far from us. We dropped anchor at Cape Bedford; we had intended staying here the night but with conditions so perfect and nowhere to swim, we decided to have lunch and then continue another 18 nautical miles, passing beautiful white flecked mountains, looking just like snow covered ranges as we cruised north. The white is actually sand, and we passed the large Silica mining wharf just as we were rounding Cape Flattery, dropping anchor in the beautiful sandy bay. Going ashore, we met some local campers, who told us they only swim when the water is clear due to crocs, so we walked along the beach and then returned to the dinghy, keeping a sharp lookout as we waded out to it and returning to Manookatoo with haste! Another calm and clear night followed, making us very hopeful of a pleasant cruise tomorrow.

Silica jetty, Cape Flattery

With just 18 nautical miles until our final destination, we had a more relaxed start on Saturday morning, raising the anchor just after 7am and cruising northeast. There was a slight roll on the seas, making the first mate’s yoga session a bit challenging, and, with 99% humidity, a bit sticky too! We skirted around the western side of Lizard Island, past the Australian Museum Research Station and the exclusive resort, keeping a close watch on the coral outcrops and dropping anchor in Mrs Watson’s Bay just after 10:00. Three other boats were anchored here, less than we had expected at such a popular anchorage. We headed to shore in the dinghy, exploring the sandy beach and checking out the walks we intend doing in the next few days before having a refreshing swim. In the afternoon we took the dinghy around to the beach fronting the resort, which is closed until at least the end of September, admiring the cottages fronting the water, walking up to the Marlin Bar, usually welcoming of Boaties but not at the moment! We enjoyed another swim before returning to Manookatoo, freshening up and heading back for sundowners at the “Lizard lounge” - a few logs and a palm covered, ramshackle bar on the beach - for sundowners to celebrate our arrival at our far north destination. Our three course dinner on Manookatoo capped off a very satisfying day.

On Sunday we headed ashore again, ready and equipped for a long walk. We headed inland, past the ruins of Mary Watson’s house, across the mangrove boardwalk and up the Chinamans Ridge. The views in both directions were quite lovely. Continuing on, we skirted the airport runway and followed the long and sandy road to the research station. Unfortunately, due to Covid, it was closed, with only a skeleton crew of four; usually up to 35 researchers are here, studying the coral reefs and collecting samples in one of their many boats. Returning along the hilly track, we detoured along the other side of the runway and out to the Blue Lagoon. With windy conditions today we were not tempted into the water on this side of the island, returning along the Pandanus lined track to our “own” beach for a well earned swim! That afternoon, many other Boaties joined us ashore for sundowners and we enjoyed meeting some long term “residents” of the island and hearing about all the things to do here.

Monday was overcast and a bit blowy, so we took it “easy”, walking the path along behind the beach where Mary Watson and family had their farm, looking at the ruins of what may have been their house, trying out the fresh water pump and checking out the camping facilities. The weather cleared as the day went on and we enjoyed a couple of swims, returning to the beach for the ritual sundowners before another quiet night on anchor.

We decided, on Tuesday, that it was time to tackle the climb to “Cook’s look”, the place where, 250 years ago (minus one day!) he had climbed to try to find a way through the maze of outlying reefs into safe water. The climb was very challenging for the first half, following the rocky headland up and around, clambering over rocks and trying not to look down into the sea! The second half was a slog, ever upwards, and I marvelled at Captain Cook’s stamina, as I’m sure he would have been wearing heavier clothes and carrying more equipment than me! The sun came out as we reached the summit and the views were glorious, both out to sea and across the island to the Blue Lagoon. We found Cook’s Passage through the gap in the reefs, amazed that he managed to map it accurately enough to find his way through. 

Returning down the hill to the beach, we enjoyed a swim and an afternoon of relaxation.

Wednesday was sunny all day so it was time for snorkelling! The famous clam gardens were just next to our boat and we enjoyed an hour exploring the area, seeing beautiful coral and awesomely huge clams, the large slugs, known as Beche de Mere, lying on the sea floor and colourful fish of all sizes flitting around us - including Nemo, the famous clown fish! We returned to our boat enthusiastic but worn out.

We repeated our snorkelling adventures on Thursday, this time at the fringing reef on the northern end of Mrs Watson’s bay. It was easier entering the water from the shore and swimming out to the coral, which was not quite as colourful but still quite lovely. Schools of Zebra fish darted past, large Wrasse swam lazily by, starfish of different colours and sizes clung to the rocks. It is a beautiful place to be.

Friday was a windier day so we didn’t fancy hitting the coral, preferring a couple of swims nearer to shore, catching up with new found friends for some local knowledge about likely anchorages and to check out the weather (they were anchored further out and had a better internet booster than us!). Once again we enjoyed sundowners ashore; it has been lovely to meet so many like minded people and hear tales of their boating adventures. We bid them all farewell as we are heading off in the morning after a wonderful week exploring as far north as we intend going....but we might be back again!

Captain's log - Port Douglas to Lizard Island
Distance: 118.2 nautical miles

Fuel: 115.1 litres

Travel time: 19 hours 20 minutes

New adventures

Farewell Moon River

We had last stayed in the Moon River, Cairns, in December 2015, leaving Manookatoo here when we went south for Christmas and our European holiday, intending to return in 2018 and continue north...now, nearly 1000 days later, we are ready to continue! We dropped into Yorkeys Knob Yacht Club for a night, enjoying a drink at the bar and a walk to the shops, reminiscing about our earlier visit and reflecting on “what happened next"...and how fortunate we are!

Says it all, really!

After a quiet night we were off again, cruising past Palm Cove and Ellis Beach, dodging around the coastal reefs and entering Dickson Inlet at Port Douglas, tying up at the Crystalbrook Superyacht Marina, amongst all the cruise boats and other fellow travellers. Port Douglas is one of our favourite destinations, not only because we had our honeymoon here, but because it offers so much to see and do! We enjoyed a week at the marina, doing all the iconic walks, visiting the Sunday markets, enjoying a meal at the “Tin Shed”, sundowners at the Surf Club and even going for a Wednesday afternoon sail with members of the Yacht Club. It was lovely to be on the sea hearing only the waves, bobbing up and down in the swell as we sailed along. 

We also hired a car for a day, driving to Cairns for a few supplies and then north to Daintree ferry crossing (where we’d cruised in 2017), then on to Daintree Village, returning to Mossman for lunch under the trees beside the Mossman river and visiting the lovely old stone church, St Mary's, begun in 1912 and finished in 1942. At the moment it is sugar cane cutting time and we encountered a couple of cane trains coming into the sugar mill, crossing the road with their carriages full of harvested cane. 

Enjoying the walks and views

Sunset, Port Douglas

On Tuesday morning we picked up some Mocka’s pies on our morning walk, then returned to Manookatoo for breakfast before fueling up and heading back down the inlet and into the Coral Sea. The destination was the Low Isles, just over 7 nautical miles off the coast. We picked up a mooring then lowered the dinghy into the water, keen to go ashore and check out the island again. With few tourist boats running this time there was only one small group returning to their boat when we arrived, so we had the beach to ourselves! After a walk along the shore we returned to Manookatoo for our delicious pies, then relaxed the afternoon away, enjoying sunset on the flybridge and dinner outside under the clear sky. There was a swell from the 20 knot winds and waves, but nothing that stops us from sleeping. We relaxed the Wednesday away, walking around the island but not swimming as the wind was a bit chilly! After another night on anchor, we headed back to Port Douglas on Thursday morning; wind conditions were strengthening for the next few days and we had no wish to get caught offshore! Yvonne and Andrew came to visit for the day and we enjoyed a long lunch at the Tin Shed. 

Approaching the Low Isles

Low Isles - empty!

With another windy week predicted, we decided to have a “holiday within a holiday”! We rented a small car on Saturday morning and headed northwest, enjoying breakfast at the Mossman markets on the way. We climbed up the Rex Range through rainforests and tight bends, and turned right just north of Mount Molloy, travelling along the Peninsula Development Road, passing through Mount Carbine, Palmer River and Lakeland before turning onto the Mulligan Highway and continuing on to Cooktown. The vegetation surprised us; once we left the Rex range we were in more scrubby countryside, and then suddenly, around Lakeland, there were hundreds of acres of banana trees and mahogany plantations. We didn’t linger along the way as we were keen to see the James Cook Museum, which is currently only open on Fridays and Saturdays. After a quick lunch we spent many hours in the museum, reading excerpts from Cook’s journal and admiring the cannon and anchor from the Endeavour,  studying historical facets of local life: from the aborigines who were displaced when settlers arrived, the chinese and other gold prospectors on their way to Palmer River and Maytown, to the two world wars and even the history of the building itself, a Catholic convent and girls school for almost 100 years. It was fascinating! Later, we checked into our “budget” accommodation, the Seaview Hotel, which is cheap and cheerful with the best views anywhere in town! We went for a walk to investigate dinner options, enjoying a drink while listening to the music at the Top Pub but making a reservation at the RSL club, where the menu appealed more. We were very happy with our choice and enjoyed a feast of locally caught seafood with a glass of wine or two.

Sunset from our room - beautiful!

   

Sunday was a day for local exploration. We walked to the top of Grassy Hill, where Captain Cook had climbed to try and find a passage through the reef. It was a steep climb but the views were spectacular! Later in the morning we drove out to the Lions Den, an iconic pub near the end of the Bloomfield track, the 4WD road from Cape Tribulation. The road is almost all sealed now and, according to a couple we met at the pub, very tame. The pub was very busy but the burgers were delicious! Returning to town we had a lazy afternoon before heading to the boat ramp at 5:00 for a sunset river cruise, where Nick the captain kept us informed and interested as we cruised along the Endeavour River and into the mangroves. We enjoyed cheese and nibbles with our own drinks, meeting fellow travellers and enjoying the ambience before returning to the boat ramp after dark, trying (but failing!) to spot crocodiles as we went. 

On Monday morning the history centre was open, so we spent another hour or two reading about the fascinating history of Cooktown, from busy northern port to sleepy fishing village, cut off from the world except by sea until the 1960s, the road finally sealed in 2006, now welcoming many tourists, especially during the winter. This year marked 250 years since the Endeavour was beached and repaired on the riverbank, and a huge celebration had been planned, unfortunately scuttled by Covid. There is a smaller celebration planned for 2021, but it won’t be the same. Afterwards we bought prawns from the local wholesaler, rolls from the baker and seafood sauce, avocado and leaves from the IGA and headed out on the Hope Vale road, stopping at Endeavour falls, beautiful but no swimming! We continued onto the Battle Camp road, stopping at Isabella Falls, where we enjoyed our prawn rolls beside the water. After here the road becomes a 4WD track so we returned to town. We had planned to have dinner at the local bowling club but were barred from entering because our licenses are from Victoria, so we bought take away fish and chips from the local cafe and enjoyed that, with our salad and some wine, looking out on the view from in front of our hotel room - it was all lovely!

    

On Tuesday it was time to return to Port Douglas and Manookatoo. We took our time, enjoying a drive up Grassy Hill to see the views, stopping at each of the lookouts on the journey home, plotting our cruising course north. The winds have finally eased and we are ready to continue! We stocked up with some last minute supplies, including some more Mockas pies, and enjoyed a reunion drink with our friends Donna and Mike, who just happen to have flown up for a holiday. We are in no hurry, so will make sure we are well prepared before we go, as we will need ample of everything in case we get stuck for a few days somewhere remote - north of Cooktown there is not much available! It’s time for brand new adventures for us.

Drinks with friends