Finally!

Sunset on the water

With a favourable weather window and a boat stocked with everything we think we need, we were ready to leave Port Douglas on Wednesday, 5th August. We untied the lines after an early lunch and headed north to Snapper Island, just 12 nautical miles north, securing the public mooring just near two fishing boats resting before their night’s work. This was the furthest we had been north in 2017 and we remembered the island with fondness. We lowered the dinghy and went ashore, landing between reefs and stumbling up the coral strewn beach. When last here, we had swum and snorkelled, enjoying the beauty under the water, but this time there was a sign on the beach warning of crocodiles, not surprising when we are so close to the mouth of the Daintree River, so we didn’t repeat that fun! We enjoyed sundowners on the flybridge before an early night.

Hope Island

The Captain was up before dawn the next morning, eager to continue north. He started the engines at first light, waking the first mate with a cup of coffee then dropping the mooring and motoring on. The sea was a little bit rolly but nothing too uncomfortable, and we enjoyed crumpets for breakfast as we cruised along. We passed Cape Tribulation, covered by low lying cloud, then the Bloomfield River and Endeavour Reef, where Captain Cook came to grief just over 250 years ago. We reached Hope Island and cautiously made our way through the coral to pick up a mooring just offshore, right on lunchtime. The weather closed in as the afternoon wore on, but we put on our raincoats and went ashore for an exploratory walk, meeting other Boaties as we wandered. It is always good to talk to like minded people and pick up hints and tips about the best anchorages and how to approach them. We were pleased also to have reception here and enjoyed watching TV using our internet, probably the last time we will have this opportunity in a while! Even though there had been some wind with the earlier rain it settled as the night wore on and we had a very peaceful night.

On Friday morning we dropped the anchor at first light and made our cautious way out through the reef again - fortunately the captain had made a track on the chart plotter on our way in so he had that to follow, but we also took it nice and slow until we were well clear. We continued north, passing Cooktown to our left, with whales frolicking in the water not far from us. We dropped anchor at Cape Bedford; we had intended staying here the night but with conditions so perfect and nowhere to swim, we decided to have lunch and then continue another 18 nautical miles, passing beautiful white flecked mountains, looking just like snow covered ranges as we cruised north. The white is actually sand, and we passed the large Silica mining wharf just as we were rounding Cape Flattery, dropping anchor in the beautiful sandy bay. Going ashore, we met some local campers, who told us they only swim when the water is clear due to crocs, so we walked along the beach and then returned to the dinghy, keeping a sharp lookout as we waded out to it and returning to Manookatoo with haste! Another calm and clear night followed, making us very hopeful of a pleasant cruise tomorrow.

Silica jetty, Cape Flattery

With just 18 nautical miles until our final destination, we had a more relaxed start on Saturday morning, raising the anchor just after 7am and cruising northeast. There was a slight roll on the seas, making the first mate’s yoga session a bit challenging, and, with 99% humidity, a bit sticky too! We skirted around the western side of Lizard Island, past the Australian Museum Research Station and the exclusive resort, keeping a close watch on the coral outcrops and dropping anchor in Mrs Watson’s Bay just after 10:00. Three other boats were anchored here, less than we had expected at such a popular anchorage. We headed to shore in the dinghy, exploring the sandy beach and checking out the walks we intend doing in the next few days before having a refreshing swim. In the afternoon we took the dinghy around to the beach fronting the resort, which is closed until at least the end of September, admiring the cottages fronting the water, walking up to the Marlin Bar, usually welcoming of Boaties but not at the moment! We enjoyed another swim before returning to Manookatoo, freshening up and heading back for sundowners at the “Lizard lounge” - a few logs and a palm covered, ramshackle bar on the beach - for sundowners to celebrate our arrival at our far north destination. Our three course dinner on Manookatoo capped off a very satisfying day.

On Sunday we headed ashore again, ready and equipped for a long walk. We headed inland, past the ruins of Mary Watson’s house, across the mangrove boardwalk and up the Chinamans Ridge. The views in both directions were quite lovely. Continuing on, we skirted the airport runway and followed the long and sandy road to the research station. Unfortunately, due to Covid, it was closed, with only a skeleton crew of four; usually up to 35 researchers are here, studying the coral reefs and collecting samples in one of their many boats. Returning along the hilly track, we detoured along the other side of the runway and out to the Blue Lagoon. With windy conditions today we were not tempted into the water on this side of the island, returning along the Pandanus lined track to our “own” beach for a well earned swim! That afternoon, many other Boaties joined us ashore for sundowners and we enjoyed meeting some long term “residents” of the island and hearing about all the things to do here.

Monday was overcast and a bit blowy, so we took it “easy”, walking the path along behind the beach where Mary Watson and family had their farm, looking at the ruins of what may have been their house, trying out the fresh water pump and checking out the camping facilities. The weather cleared as the day went on and we enjoyed a couple of swims, returning to the beach for the ritual sundowners before another quiet night on anchor.

We decided, on Tuesday, that it was time to tackle the climb to “Cook’s look”, the place where, 250 years ago (minus one day!) he had climbed to try to find a way through the maze of outlying reefs into safe water. The climb was very challenging for the first half, following the rocky headland up and around, clambering over rocks and trying not to look down into the sea! The second half was a slog, ever upwards, and I marvelled at Captain Cook’s stamina, as I’m sure he would have been wearing heavier clothes and carrying more equipment than me! The sun came out as we reached the summit and the views were glorious, both out to sea and across the island to the Blue Lagoon. We found Cook’s Passage through the gap in the reefs, amazed that he managed to map it accurately enough to find his way through. 

Returning down the hill to the beach, we enjoyed a swim and an afternoon of relaxation.

Wednesday was sunny all day so it was time for snorkelling! The famous clam gardens were just next to our boat and we enjoyed an hour exploring the area, seeing beautiful coral and awesomely huge clams, the large slugs, known as Beche de Mere, lying on the sea floor and colourful fish of all sizes flitting around us - including Nemo, the famous clown fish! We returned to our boat enthusiastic but worn out.

We repeated our snorkelling adventures on Thursday, this time at the fringing reef on the northern end of Mrs Watson’s bay. It was easier entering the water from the shore and swimming out to the coral, which was not quite as colourful but still quite lovely. Schools of Zebra fish darted past, large Wrasse swam lazily by, starfish of different colours and sizes clung to the rocks. It is a beautiful place to be.

Friday was a windier day so we didn’t fancy hitting the coral, preferring a couple of swims nearer to shore, catching up with new found friends for some local knowledge about likely anchorages and to check out the weather (they were anchored further out and had a better internet booster than us!). Once again we enjoyed sundowners ashore; it has been lovely to meet so many like minded people and hear tales of their boating adventures. We bid them all farewell as we are heading off in the morning after a wonderful week exploring as far north as we intend going....but we might be back again!

Captain's log - Port Douglas to Lizard Island
Distance: 118.2 nautical miles

Fuel: 115.1 litres

Travel time: 19 hours 20 minutes