The Wind in the ..... Whitsundays

Erratic winds!!

South Molle resort wreck

Sailors love wind, power cruisers not so much! On Wednesday, 10th June, after a week in the marina, we cruised out, hoping to enjoy easing wind conditions for the next little while.   We bounced around in the waves once we left the protection of Pioneer Point, making our way east through the Molle Channel and safely navigating “Unsafe Passage” between north and south Molle islands, dropping anchor in the protected water of Bauer Bay, the site of a once lovely but now wrecked resort. We had stayed here before, in 2017, picking up one of the resort’s courtesy moorings, but we were unsure how long it was since they’d been surveyed, so we opted to anchor instead! The old disused jetty has been removed and it appears work is underway to remove the old buildings, which contain asbestos and other toxic materials, before a new resort commences building (whenever that might be!). After the workers left for the day we lowered the dingy and went to shore, checking out the national park camping ground and the walk we intend doing in the morning. We enjoyed a quiet night on anchor, with just a gentle swell to remind us we were in the water.

The view from Lamond Hill

On Thursday morning, after breakfast, we went ashore again, keen to ascend the local hill and check out the view. It was right on low tide and finding a way through the coral reef that lined the shore was very tricky! Once ashore we headed into the rainforest, following the rocky steps up and around the edge of the island, pleased to join the wider, grassy path that took us up a gentle slope to Lamond Hill. Unfortunately there was no viewing platform, instead we peered between the branches to see the sea. Returning to Manookatoo, we raised the anchor and continued east across the Whitsunday passage, also bouncy until we were in the shelter of Cid island. 

No swimming at Cid Harbour!

Red sky at night - sailors' delight??

We continued into Cid harbour, dropping anchor not far from Sawmill Bay. This is another popular anchorage, and there were a few boats here already. Last time we had stayed here, in 2017, we had swum off the back of the boat, but with a spate of shark attacks - one fatal - in the time since then, swimming was definitely out of the question. Instead we went ashore and checked out the walks, climbing part of the way up the Whitsunday peak walk to check out the old dam, once part of the sawmill from which the bay got its name. We whiled away the rest of the afternoon, marvelling at the beautiful sunset and hoping this boded well for good weather in the next few days.

Dugong beach, Cid Harbour

On Friday morning, after our exercises and breakfast, we took the dingy to shore again to complete the short walk from Sawmill to Dugong Beach. The track winds up through the lush rainforest, with glimpses of the water as we climbed. Butterflies were everywhere flitting in the sunshine, and bright coloured fungi grew on every damp log. There were many huge felled trees on both sides of the track - a reminder of both the old logging industry and the power of the weather in these parts. Returning to Manookatoo we raised the anchor again, heading southwest through the Hunt channel and then turning west, following the Whitsunday passage back to Long Island before dropping anchor in Happy Bay, opposite yet another old resort (this one is for sale if you have a spare 15 million!). After lunch we headed ashore, intent to walk the Circuit track. Fortunately the caretaker gave us good advice - the first 300m is a “bush bash” before the track improves - otherwise we may have given up! It was a rocky climb on an overgrown path but we were rewarded with views over to Dent and Hamilton islands, finishing at the back of the old resort. We returned to Manookatoo for a well earned rest, enjoying the calm and quiet conditions.

A wet walk on Long Island

Saturday morning dawned foggy and drizzly, with 99% humidity. After breakfast we dressed ready for rain and went ashore to walk to Palm Bay resort, detouring to Pandanus and Fish Bays and Humpy Point on the way back. Palm Bay resort reopens in a couple of weeks after closing due to Covid 19 and we could hear generators going and see golf carts full of cleaning materials as they geared up. We returned to Manookatoo for a sausage sizzle lunch and a lazy afternoon; with rain falling all day there was little motivation to go far!

Macona Inlet

We woke on Sunday morning to clearer skies and a little less humidity and, after exercises and breakfast, we raised the anchor again, heading back past the Molle Islands and Cid Harbour, this time heading into Macona Inlet, dropping anchor near a little beach surrounded by lush hills. In the dingy, we made our way through the fringing reefs at low tide, marvelling at how clearly we could see the coral. We explored the beach and had a short swim - more of a paddle as the water was quite shallow! Another lazy afternoon and quiet evening followed. The next day it was time for our exercises and then we went ashore for a swim; the water was quite a bit deeper as the tide was higher. Later we took the dingy and explored most of the beaches in the inlet; some were surrounded by rocks and reefs so we didn’t risk causing damage to our boat by navigating our way through that! The captain tried a few rock oysters and declared them delicious. A quiet afternoon aboard followed.

Anchored off Abel Point

Another spell of windy days was forecast so we raised the anchor early on Tuesday morning, heading back to Airlie beach. Conditions were quite lumpy as we navigated Whitsunday passage and we were pleased to reach the shelter of Pioneer point, cruising around to behind Abel Point before dropping anchor. We spent the next two nights anchored just outside Coral Bay Marina, going ashore in the dingy a few times, walking to town to explore or shop. The wind continued - well above the levels forecast - and by Thursday morning we were ready for a night in the marina, enabling us to do our laundry, go out for lunch and borrow the courtesy car to shop further afield, including the delicious “Fishi” for prawns and scallops. 

Grimston Point beach

On Friday, with the winds forecast to abate, we headed out again and around into Woodwark Bay, just north of Airlie. This offered some protection from prevailing winds and we enjoyed two nights on anchor in the shelter of Grimston Point and Dryander National Park. Winds continue to blow well above forecast levels. We had intended to make our way over to Butterfly Bay, on Hook Island, and from there travel offshore to Bate Reef for a couple of nights. However there is no appeal for that in windy conditions so we have revised our plans and will slowly cruise north - perhaps it will be better on the way back south!

The wonderful Whitsundays

Whitehaven beach - deserted

Welcome to Whitehaven!

Captain Cook sailed through and named the Whitsunday passage in May, 1770. Two hundred and fifty years later and, if you approach from the south the way we did, everything looks almost exactly as it would have then! There is no doubting the beauty of this region, with hilly, lush green islands rising all around, crystal clear water and all manner of sea life. We started our Whitsundays wandering at Shaw Island, a lovely anchorage opposite the abandoned Lindeman Island resort. We walked the beaches and explored the mangrove lined water courses, but could find no way through the thick bush, instead enjoying a swim in the warm tropical sea. After a calm night on anchor we continued, cruising past Lindeman and through the Solway Passage to Whitehaven beach, on Whitsunday Island. Usually bustling with boatloads of tourists from Hamilton Island or Airlie Beach, the place was practically deserted, and we enjoyed a walk along the clean white sand, taking the track to Chance Bay and exploring the lookout, the only place with phone reception. A swim on the beach was reward for our efforts, and dinner outside reminded us of how lovely this place is, day or night. 

Tongue point lookout

A rolling swell developed overnight and continued on Saturday, and, with stronger winds forecast, we raised the anchor and cruised north 5 nautical miles into Tongue Bay. Last time we had moored here the wind and swell from the north had disturbed our evening, this time with south easterly winds it seems the perfect anchorage, although frequent passing showers prevented us going ashore and exploring further. Overnight the swell increased and, as the tide turned, the mooring “knocked” on the side of the boat, ending sleep until the Captain rectified matters! Next morning we took the dingy to the beach and followed the well formed path to climb up to the lookout. The views across to Whitehaven and beyond were spectacular! We returned to Manookatoo for breakfast before throwing off the mooring and continuing along the top of Whitehaven Island and following the Hook Passage towards the inner islands. We entered Nara Inlet, a very popular quiet anchorage in Hook Island, where - contrary to “normal” conditions, it was empty! We cruised all the way to the top of the fjord-like inlet, dropping anchor not far from the end. It is so calm and beautiful here, which is why it is normally such a popular spot for charter cruises. We whiled away the rest of the day, catching up on lost sleep and enjoying the peace.

Nara Inlet

Ngaro cave paintings

On Monday we woke to absolute stillness. After breakfast we set of in the dingy to explore the Ngaro trail, up to a plateau where rock art adorns the walls of a nearby cave and panels and a series of recorded messages explain the history of the area. It is fascinating but quite sad, considering the people who had lived here for thousands of years were displaced by governments in two years at the end of the nineteenth century. One speaker explained the importance to all of us of the three Rs: Recognition, Respect and Reconciliation. A sobering message. Later we cruised in the dingy to the entrance of the inlet, picking up reception and checking our communications, downloading the news and weather while we were there.

Airlie beach

Tuesday dawned still and sunny in our perfect anchorage. However after almost two weeks away from “civilisation” it was time to head towards port. After enjoying our exercises in the calm conditions we raised the anchor and headed out of the inlet and across the Whitsunday passage, making for Airlie Beach, anchoring in the aptly named Muddy Bay. After lunch we took the dingy around to the harbour at Whitsundays Yacht Club. Entering right on low tide was a big mistake as the harbour almost empties of water and the only way to reach the landing was by pushing the dingy through thick mud, sinking up to our knees several times as we slogged in. It was a relief to get ashore, wash our feet and head into town! Airlie is very much a tourist town and at the moment, with no tourists, it is almost dead. Many of the shops and businesses in the Main Street are closed, with signs saying they hope to reopen soon. It was a stark reminder of how devastating this crisis is. We wandered around the streets and across to the (currently closed) ferry terminal, buying a few items for dinner before returning to the now floating dingy and off to Manookatoo. 

Low tide - push the dingy in

High tide - what a difference

The wind lifted overnight as predicted, so on Wednesday we made our way around to the Port of Airlie marina, where we had booked in for two nights. After thirteen nights on anchor it was time to restock the cupboard and refill the water tanks! Luckily the marina has a courtesy car so we made good use of it to visit Bunnings and Big W as well as the butcher, fish monger and supermarket. There is some shopping within walking distance of the marina, but the majority of businesses are further afield, over the hills at Cannonvale. 
Alas, as the wind continued well above the forecast for the next week, we stayed at the marina and got to know the Airlie beach precinct fairly well, walking across to Abel Point marina or enjoying coffee, lunch or a refreshing afternoon drink, getting haircuts and taking advantage of the loosening of Covid 19 restrictions. We are hoping that it will start to abate tomorrow and allow us to enjoy cruising around the wonderful Whitsundays once again.