Two months after we arrived, it is time to be starting the migration south again. We untied the lines on Sunday, 20th September. Our first stop was the Low Isles, a perennial favourite, where we were pleasantly surprised to pick up a courtesy mooring. We were keen to try out our kayaks, our wedding anniversary present to each other (so we “don’t rock the boat” - get it??), and we spent hours paddling around over reefs and shallow sandy beds, into the mangrove lined creeks of Woody Isle and across to the beach at Low Isle for a swim. Conditions were perfect; a slight breeze, no waves, sunshine - we were amazed there weren’t more boats around.  |
Low Isles
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Trying out our kayaks
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On Monday morning we let the mooring go and headed east, nine nautical miles offshore, to Tongue Reef. The wind and waves picked up as we were cruising and we entered the U shaped reef with some trepidation as the sun was in front of us and it was difficult to see where the coral was amongst the deeper waters. We dropped anchor not far off the reef and had a cuppa, contemplating our plans - the wind and waves made kayaking or snorkelling unappealing! With no sand cay to walk on or swim off, we decided it didn’t offer what we were looking for, so we retreated back to the Low Isles where our mooring was still available and the conditions were more kayak-friendly! All the tour boat operators visited that day, with people snorkelling, paddle boarding and even kite surfing - it was busy during the day but we returned to peace and tranquility as the sun set.
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Michaelmas Cay
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Tuesday morning saw us drop the mooring just after sunrise, ready to begin heading south. Once we left the protection of Low Isles the conditions were “lumpy”, with short, sharp waves on the bow. We arrived at Michaelmas Cay just before lunch and paddled ashore in our kayaks for a swim. It was a bit wavier than we were used to, with a current running out, so it was hard work to get in but easier on the way back! There was a large tour group ashore, snorkelling and photographing the multitude of terns who call the island home. While there were less birds than last time we were here, they were still quite noisy!! After lunch and a relaxing afternoon, when the tour boat had left, we dropped the dinghy in the water and went ashore for a lovely swim - the water is clear and warm. We enjoyed a beautiful tropical night 20 nautical miles offshore, and the first mate even attended “virtual” 40th birthday drinks with a group of Melbourne friends!
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Foxy's @ Fitzroy Island
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We started Wednesday morning with our exercise routine, then went ashore for a well deserved swim before breakfast. We cruised on soon after, across to Vlassoff Cay, where we had a cuppa then jumped in the dinghy to go ashore, where a helicopter had landed on the island and set up an umbrella for a bit of shade. However with the tide dropping and no clear way through the coral, we abandoned that idea, returning to the boat and lifting the anchor, making our way to Green Island for lunch, then moving on again to Fitzroy Island, a perennial favourite. We kayaked ashore for a swim and a walk, returning to Manookatoo to freshen up, drop the dinghy in the water and head over to Foxy’s Bar for sundowners.
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The summit, Fitzroy Island
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Farewell our friends!
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Next morning, after breakfast, we kayaked ashore with our shoes and water bottles for the summit walk, a difficult uphill climb up through the rocks. Fortunately we had a breeze and were in the shade for most of the way up! After reviving ourselves at the summit we picked our way down a rockier path to join the road to the lighthouse. Here we could see all the coral reefs and sand cays to the east of the island, somewhere we are keen to explore tomorrow. We returned to the shore via the old, concrete road, quickly jumping in the water to cool off. It was very shallow and rocky as the tide was low so we didn’t stay in for long, padding back to the boat for a cuppa and a well earned rest! In the afternoon we watched as our friends on Tranquility Base arrived, and later we met Yvonne and Andrew for sundowners at Foxy’s. They, too are heading south, but at a faster rate than us, so we probably won’t see them again on our travels.
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Anchored amongst the coral!
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After another lovely, peaceful night, we raised the anchor and headed due east, to check out Sudbury Reef. Conditions were perfect for the short, ten nautical mile cruise, and we were lucky to get a mooring there. We put our snorkelling gear in our kayaks, dropped them in the water and paddled ashore, walking around the sand cay before hitting the sea to check out the coral. There was quite a strong current, which made snorkelling a challenge! Returning to the kayaks and paddling back to Manookatoo, we unhitched the mooring and headed south west, stopping midway for lunch and reaching Normanby Island later in the afternoon, just as the tour boat was leaving.
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Normanby Island
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We cheekily took their mooring, knowing they wouldn’t return until tomorrow! As it was further out, we went to shore by dinghy, walking around the southern half of the island and taking the boardwalk through the mangroves and rainforest to the eastern side. We returned again to shore for sundowners, appreciating the quiet and stillness with only one other boat nearby and nobody else onshore.
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| An early start! |
On Saturday morning we made an early start, cruising past the Johnson River (Innisfail) and Mourilyan Harbour, rounding Purdaboi Island and picking up a mooring at Dunk Island in time for lunch. Many boats, both large and small, were here, and the camping areas are full as it is school holidays. Ski boats and jet skis whizzed around and even the Police boat was anchored there for a while. It was very busy after the quiet of yesterday! Later in the afternoon we went ashore for a swim and then back for sundowners, but there are plenty of March flies around so the aerogard was necessary! Marookatta, with friends we had made at Lizard Island, arrived late in the afternoon and we made plans to catch up the next morning. We enjoyed a three course dinner on the back deck that evening, enjoying calm seas and balmy conditions.
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A long way to paddle!
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Ian and Angela, Marookatta
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After our morning swim on Sunday, we visited Angela and Ian on Marookatta for morning tea and to catch up on their adventures at Lizard Island. There had been a crocodile attack since our time there, a shock as it is so far from the mainland! We were glad we had snorkelled and swum there before this happened - we may not have been so keen now! It was lovely to see them again and swap stories, hopefully we will meet up a few times as we are heading in the same direction. Later, as they raised their anchor and headed off, we paddled the kayaks ashore and walked to Muggy Muggy beach. We had planned to swim there but the low tide and coral underfoot, coupled with aggressive March flies, had us returning to Brammo Bay. In the afternoon we tackled a longer kayak trip across to Purdaboi Island, where we had a refreshing swim before the long paddle back.
It has now been over a week since we started our southerly journey. We have loved being back on the water again and only hope that the benign weather continues for a little longer as we continue cruising.
Captain's log Port Douglas to Dunk Island:
Distance travelled - 150 NM
Fuel - 151.8 litres
Travel time - 26 hours, 20 minutes
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