Calm waters on the Curtis Coast

Calm conditions

The First Mate is a "fair weather sailor", preferring light winds and no swell to adventure on the high seas. The Captain does his best to accommodate this, and regular checking of the BOM page "Met Eye" keeps us both well informed and able to make reasonably good cruising decisions. Of course, as any sailor knows, wind gusts and wave heights can be much greater than forecast, but we take that chance. We have been cruising in mostly favourable weather conditions ever since we left the Clarence River, but have enjoyed a particularly good patch in the last week.

Another beautiful sunset

Leaving Hervey Bay and the Great Sandy Straits early on Wednesday morning, there was a slight swell, which made eating breakfast a little bit of a challenge, but soon after that the sea flattened out and we cruised along the coast, admiring the view from the Flybridge - wearing our ePirbs "just in case", but feeling safe and enjoying the beautiful sunny day. We saw no whales as we crossed Hervey Bay, and wondered where the many boatloads of Whale-Watch tourists went each day! Soon after midday we cruised into the Burnett River, the channel markers well out to sea to guide the sugar ships upstream making it easy to see where to go. The small boat harbour just inside looked silted up and shallow, so we dropped anchor in the large basin just before the Marina and lazed the afternoon away. Intending to travel on the next morning,  we didn't make the two hour cruise up to Bundaberg, but will plan to do this on our way south later next year. Late in the afternoon, a couple of fishing trawlers began prawning in the channel, then, just before bedtime a large sugar ship cruised by, accompanied by a couple of tugs, but apart from that it was very peaceful.

Crowded anchorage - Pancake Creek

Pancake Creek sunset

Early on Thursday morning the Captain lifted the anchor, leaving the First Mate in bed with a large cup of coffee and the morning newspaper on the iPad. The conditions were so calm there was no need for her to rise early! As we continued northwards, flat, glistening seas surrounded us with a few yachts unfurling sails in the distance trying to catch the slightest breeze. We approached Round Head just on 1:00, planning to enter through the bar to anchor for a night at the town of 1770 but the VMR were not sure that the depth over the bar was sufficient at that time for what we draw, so, as the tide was falling, we decided against it and continued through Bustard Bay. We passed a couple of whales heading south as we rounded Clews Point, then we cruised into Pancake Creek, dropping anchor just past the last channel markers. There were quite a few boats in the secluded anchorage already, enjoying the calm conditions. We dropped the dinghy on the water and cruised ashore - the tide was out so the walk from the sandbanks to the shore was quite a long one! Back aboard we enjoyed a stunning sunset before dinner, a movie (no TV reception here) and bed.

Bustard Head lighthouse

After a peaceful night on anchor we were keen to explore, so we went ashore early Friday morning - on a rising tide it was easy to get in close this time. We walked across the Chinaman's Creek mudflats, then up the hill to the Bustard Head Lighthouse, stopping for a chat with the acting lighthouse caretaker. Bustard Head was the first lighthouse built in Queensland in 1868 and was automated in 1986, falling prey to vandalism soon after and almost demolished before a dedicated group restored it in 2002. With a group arriving by LARC from 1770 due soon, we decided against the tour and continued onto the Jenny Lind Creek lookout, gazing across Bustard Bay and seeing our anchorage from the other direction. We returned to the track via the well restored cemetery and made the walk down to Aeroplane Beach before returning to Pancake Anchorage, where high tide ensured we didn't need to lug the dinghy across the sands. Later that afternoon we joined many members of the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron, including the Clipper crews we had met at Kingfisher Cove, for sundowners on the beach - they are cruising in a group, on their way to the "Shag Islet Cruising Yacht Club" for a charity rendezvous party. We will certainly aim to be there for next year's festivities - it sounds like great fun!

Low tide at Pancake Creek

As we are loving Pancake Creek, we are not moving, so Saturday was another lazy morning - although we did start the day with our exercise routine! Later we cruised out in the dinghy, enjoying the flat conditions, around Clews Point and across towards Aeroplane Beach. The water is so clear and aqua blue, we could see manta rays and even a turtle swimming beneath us. We returned to Manookatoo for lunch and a lazy afternoon, waiting for the tide to fall before enjoying a walk on the sandbar that appeared in the middle of the creek. Another beautiful sunset deepened into a starry night while we ate our three-course "Saturday special" and watched an episode of "Coast" set on the Great Barrier Reef - inspiration for future travel.

On Sunday morning the Captain raised the anchor again and we left Pancake Creek on a rising tide, heading north. The sea was glassy again and we saw a few whales frolicking in Rodds Bay as we passed, counting many coal loading ships waiting off shore for their turn at the busy coal loading facilities. Entering the shipping channel, the Captain radioed Harbour control, who

Gladstone by night

had already picked us up on AIS, to let them know we were entering and to find out the latest ship movements. We had intended anchoring in Tannum Sands but thought the entrance a little shallow, so we explored briefly in the dinghy before continuing north, passing two large ships in the channel, then heading across towards She Oak Island, dropping anchor in the bay. A lazy afternoon followed, while the captain watched his footy team win and the first mate read and did some knitting, before another glorious sunset capped off the day.

Gladstone Marina

On Monday morning it was time for an early exercise session before the sun was too high, followed by breakfast, and then the captain lifted the anchor and we made our way back across the shipping channel and into Auckland Creek, tying up at Gladstone Marina. This is a very industrial city, with coal, aluminum, gas and power plants all prominent on the waterfront, but despite this there are many lovely places and the marina itself is excellent, with great facilities. We caught the courtesy bus to the local shopping centre for supplies, stocking up the larder and the bar, before catching a taxi back to Manookatoo. After packing the supplies away we walked along the waterfront and over the bridge into the city centre, enjoying a drink at the Reef Hotel before lunch overlooking Auckland Creek at the Gladstone Yacht Club. Later that afternoon we explored the port precinct, which caters for a range of industries including pilots, barges, ferries and associated marine businesses. We bought a new book, "Curtis Coast", written by local sailing identity, Noel Patrick, planning to follow some of his advice regarding places to see in the local environment in the coming weeks.  In the evening we enjoyed sundowners on the Flybridge before dinner.

The busy port of Gladstone from Auckland Point Hill

On Tuesday we were up early for a walk along the foreshore and over the bridge, climbing up to Auckland Hill to see the busy port in action, then descending the 110 steps to walk around Auckland Point. Despite the busyness of the port and the noisiness of the local coal loading terminal, we are really enjoying Gladstone - and the weather, a beautiful 28 degrees with clear, sunny skies, is adding to our enjoyment! Today was the day for refueling the boat and dinghy and filling the water tanks. We are leaving Manookatoo in the morning to fly down for a family wedding in NSW followed by surgery to remove the "Suzuki frame" on the first mate's finger at Southport. When we return in 10 days time we intend cruising off again at the first opportunity, bound for the reef!!

The Captain's Log:
Hervey Bay to Gladstone
Distance travelled 143.3 Nautical Miles
Fuel consumption 171.4 litres (1.19 litres per NM)
Queensland Cruising so far:
Gold Coast to Gladstone
Distance travelled 402.5 Nautical Miles
Fuel consumption 426.8 litres (1.06 litres per NM)

Fabulous Fraser Island

Teebar Creek

The Captain has crossed a few ocean bars in the last little while - Yamba being the most challenging to date. Most bars have rock walls poking out well into the ocean to guide boats in; the Wide Bay Bar, into the Great Sandy Straits behind Fraser Island, is quite a different experience. Contacting the local Volunteer Marine Rescue well before we arrived on Friday afternoon, they gave him three map coordinates to follow, ensuring we wouldn't stray onto the shifting entrance sands. The Captain duly marked the coordinates on the Raymarine Navigation and we were set! The weather was also perfect - no wind, no swell, so within half an hour we were inside Wide Bay. We cruised down past Inskip Point, where 4WDs wait for the ferry to take them to Fraser Island, and turned to port, into the Tin Can channel, dropping anchor in Teebar Creek for a peaceful night amongst the mangroves.

Sunset at Garry's Anchorage

On Saturday morning the Captain was awake early, pulling up the anchor for a cruise around into Tin Can Bay. We tied up at the fuel wharf to re-fuel the dinghy, then took a walk up to the local shopping centre for a few necessities. Returning to Manookatoo we cruised further downstream, turning off the engine once we reached the main channel, drifiting along while we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. Starting the engine again, we cruised north, past the many 4WDs waiting to cross the Wide Bay entrance for a weekend on Fraser Island, making our way along the Great Sandy Straits and into Garry's Anchorage, a popular place for many cruising boats, with easy access to shore. We enjoyed a walk along the southern track after lunch, meeting fellow cruisers and swapping boating yarns, before returning to Manookatoo for a lazy afternoon and a lovely dinner. With very few people around it is a lovely peaceful place for a night.


Another early morning on Sunday was to ensure that we could exit the northern entrance to the channel while the tide was still high. The Great Sandy Straits are, as the name suggests, full of sandbanks, which catch out those who don't utilise tides to their advantage. We saw several boats stranded and waiting for the tide to rise - and we didn't want to join them! We cruised along beside Fraser Island for several nautical miles, anchoring at Ungowa for breakfast, then taking the dinghy ashore to explore this old sand mining area. There are abandoned jetties, shipping channels and old rusting wrecks littering the area but, in a sign that mother nature restores what man destroys, the mangroves are gradually reclaiming the area.

Whale!

Continuing north, we crossed the straits and headed into River Heads, where the Mary and Susan Rivers run into the Great Sandy Straits. We dropped the anchor inside the Susan River and lazed the afternoon away, amazed to see a whale cruise by, heading upstream, then turning once the river shallowed to return to deeper water.
With early morning high tides, we were bound to be up early again on Monday, heading back into the Great Sandy Straits and across to Kingfisher Bay, where the barge brings cars and passengers from the mainland to Fraser Island. We came ashore in the dinghy just near the Kingfisher Bay resort. enjoying a walk to the lookout and back to the jetty before lunch at the Sand Bar. Debating whether to partake of another drink, we noticed how much the tide had fallen and, not wishing to drag the dinghy too far to the water, we hastily departed back to Manookatoo! That afternoon we were joined on board for sundowners by two other Clipper owners - Mike and Jan from "Funky Time" and Ray and Trish from "Serenity". We swapped boating stories and all agreed that the Clippers we own are lovely boats for enjoying all manner of cruising!

Three Clipper crews

On Tuesday morning we pulled up the anchor and continued north-west, past Big Woody Island and around into Urangan on Hervey Bay, tying up at the Boat Club Marina. Shopping and washing were the order of the morning, including buying prawns from the local co-op. After lunch we took a walk along the foreshore, marvelling at the huge sandbars revealed on a low tide. We walked along the 880m pier, which served previously loading first coal, then sugar and finally fuel before being abandoned and almost demolished - a local campaign saved the remainder of what had once extended 1.2km into deeper water. We returned to Manookatoo for showers before a drink at the Boat Club, enjoying dinner aboard and an early night.

Urangan Pier

With a longer cruising day on Wednesday we dropped our lines before 6am, heading up the long channel between Urangan and Woody Island and out into Hervey Bay, passing the Fairway Bouy just after 8am and turning north-west again. We have enjoyed our time inside the Great Sandy Straits and will certainly return to explore more on our way back, but for now we have to be in Gladstone in less than a week, so it is time to move on.

Cruising into the Coral Sea

Sunset at Tangalooma wrecks

Swimming! In July!

Saturday night on Moreton Bay was to be the last of five weeks in "protected waters". After leaving the Brisbane River that morning, we cruised across to Tangalooma, a large resort on Moreton Island. We dropped anchor inside the large reef of old shipwrecks - an interesting feature of the local landscape, created to provide a safe anchorage in rough weather. Dropping the dinghy in the water we rode ashore, only to have a security guard shoo us off the beach - Tangalooma is a closed resort, guests only allowed on the beach or in the facilities! Returning to Manookatoo and restoring the dinghy to the flybridge, we lazed the afternoon away, enjoying hamburgers for lunch washed down with a couple of drinks. The weather was beautiful and the Captain even ventured into the water, giving the waterline of Manookatoo a nice clean, while the first mate held onto a rope to stop the current taking him away. A delicious lamb shank dinner followed before an early night, as the gentle waves rocked us to sleep. 

Entering Mooloolaba

With mornings brightening earlier, it is easy to wake and be ready to cruise. We were lifting the anchor just before 6am on Sunday morning and cruising through the channel heading north, with hardly a wave as we entered the Coral Sea. We headed past Bribie Island followed the north west shipping channel, rounding Point Cartwright and heading into the Mooloolah River just after 11am, tying up at the Yacht Club Marina at Mooloolaba, our home for the next few days. We took a walk along the foreshore boardwalk to Mooloolaba, visiting the Information Centre for some local knowledge and stopping for a drink at the Surf Club before returning to the Yacht Club for lunch. Our mooring is just near the fishing trawler wharves, and a walk to the Co-Op highlighted how much local seafood is caught in the area - we look forward to the opportunity to try some out in the coming days.

The First Mate caught up with family

On Monday, the First Mate's great-aunty Betty and Les came to visit and the Captain gave Les, a keen ex-boatie, a tour of Manookatoo - and he loved it, of course! Lunch at the Yacht Club included stories reminiscing about past boating adventures as well as many about the First Mate's family - a thoroughly pleasant day. 

The Captain and Danny

We were very fortunate to have use of a car for the time we were in Mooloolaba, so we made the most of it on Tuesday in order to visit the Captain's older half-brother, Danny, and Joan, who live nearby. Also keen ex-boaties, there was more reminiscing about past adventures as well as family stories and photos to share. We returned to Manookatoo to enjoy some local prawns for lunch, then later we made good use of the car to stock up on supplies at the local shopping centre before enjoying more local seafood for dinner.

Noosa

A road trip was the order of the day on Wednesday, and we started with a visit to the Eumundi Markets, buying up some local produce while we were there. We headed to Noosa Heads for a cuppa and a walk along the foreshore, then drove further south, following the coast and stopping for lunch at Coolum on our way home. 

Thursday was "medical day" - and the real reason we had borrowed a car - driving to the Gold Coast for X-rays, a CT scan, and visits to the Surgeon and Hand Therapist. With more exercises to do and a date set for surgery, we returned to the Sunshine Coast in the mid-afternoon to begin readying the boat for our next sea voyage. An afternoon walk to Mooloolaba Surf Club for a final drink overlooking the ocean was followed by dinner and an early night. 

Our last night in Mooloolaba

At first light in Friday we dropped the lines and headed out through the bar, passing the towns of the Sunshine Coast and cruising north. With light winds and a small swell, it was a pleasant day for cruising along, and by 3pm we were heading into the Wide Bay Bar in smooth seas, ready to enjoy the next little while exploring the Great Sandy Straits and Fraser Island.

The Captain's Log:

Brisbane to Mooloolaba

Distance travelled 65.5 Nautical Miles

Fuel consumption 54.9 litres

Mooloolaba to Wide Bay

Distance travelled 66 Nautical Miles

Fuel consumption 76 litres

A taste of history

A "taste" of history - beer off the wood

The Captain and First Mate both have many happy memories of Brisbane, seaparately and together. The Captain's company had an office in Brisbane and he has visited many times, so he was keen to catch up with old workmates. The First Mate lived in Brisbane for two years, enjoying Expo, making friends through Playgroup and having her baby son at Wesley Hospital. She has friends and family in Brisbane she was keen to see. Together the Captain and First Mate have visited Brisbane a couple of times, with a visit to the Breakfast Creek Hotel being a particularly fond memory they were keen to recreate!

Little Ship Club, Dunwich

We entered Moreton Bay via North Stradbroke island on Friday, enjoying an exploratry walk and lunch at the Little Ship Club at Dunwich, then cruising across to drop anchor in the lee of the breeze near St Helena Island, an historic prison site, on Friday afternoon. We enjoyed a walk ashore, the captain spent some time cleaning the dinghy while the first mate explored the historic cemeteries. Returning to Manookatoo, the dinghy was hoisted aboard in preparation for entering the port of Brisbane early the next morning.

Prisoners' cemetery, St Helena Island

We were up at first light on Saturday to take advantage of the tide into the Brisbane River. Passing through the busy entrance, we saw container ships from all parts of the globe on the port side, while planes from all parts of the globe landed on the starboard side! It is 14 nautical miles from the river mouth to the city and river traffic gets busier the further up you venture, with CityCats, CityHoppers and CityFerries adding to the mix. We arrived at Dockside Marina, just before the Story Bridge, later that morning and tied up at our marina berth, keen to go exploring. Catching a CityHopper across the river, we walked to the markets at Powerhouse, Newstead, and explored the busy food stalls. After some deliberation we decided we would try cooking "Turkey Shanks" that night, and bought a range of vegetables to accompany our dinner before catching the CityCat back to dockside. Later we caught another CityHopper upstream, to South Bank, where we ambled along the boardwalks and food stalls, enjoying a Bratwurst lunch before crossing the Goodwill bridge to the city, and making our way back via the Botanical Gardens to Eagle Street pier. where another CityHopper took us home.

Enjoying times with Donna and Mike

Sunday dawned bright and sunny and a walk across the Story Bridge and back again started our morning. We had invited Donna and Mike, friends we had met aboard Star Flyer in Scandinavia, to visit our boat for a drink before lunch at the Story Bridge Hotel. They brought the Moet - our tipple of choice during the cruise - and we recalled happy memories of our Star Flyer cruise, including Mike's proposal, which Donna accepted! A lovely lunch followed, with a few drinks and many stories shared. Later, we worked off our "excess" with a walk along the river beneath the Kangaroo Point cliffs and a CityHopper ride back from the Maritime Museum.

Our opportunities for revisiting old times continued on Monday; the First Mate caught the RiverCat to Regatta, where she enjoyed a morning coffee with Anne and Silvano, talking family and memories. Lunch with Fran and Peter, friends from Playgroup days, followed - it had been a long time between conversations but it felt like no time at all. Meanwhile the Captain met Don, an old work colleague, and enjoyed reliving past experiences and sharing new stories over lunch and a couple of beers. That night we had plenty to talk about!

Brisbane Town Hall

On Tuesday we revised our exercise program to accommodate the First Mate's injury, then we ventured out to explore history of a different kind. We took the CityFerry across to Eagle Street Pier and walked down through the streets to King George Square, where we enjoyed a tour of the "This is Brisbane" exhibition and a lift ride to the top of the Clock Tower. Brisbane's history is interspersed with river floods, the worst being in 1893 and the most recent in 2011. Photos and film show the story of its devastation. Returning to the square, we walked towards the Queen Street Mall and down to Eagle Street Pier, passing the beautiful Catholic Church and Customs House on the way. We returned to Manookatoo for lunch and a lazy afternoon, before another of the Captain's work colleagues, Peter and Deb joined us for dinner at the Story Bridge Hotel.

Breakfast Creek Hotel

Another walk across the Story Bridge started Wednesday, meandering down into the city to discover what was on offer at the markets near the river. Finding nothing that particularly tempted us, we returned to Manookatoo via the CityHopper. After a refreshing cuppa we boarded a CityCat downstream to Teneriffe, where we walked to the Breakfast Creek Hotel to enjoy a delicious steak and seafood lunch and, for the Captain, a beer "off the wood" in the historic old bar. After such an extravagant lunch we certainly didn't need much for dinner!

Thursday was "medical day", with an early train trip to the Gold Coast where the First Mate had appointments for X-rays, specialist follow-up and hand therapy. Luckily everything went smoothly and we were back at Manookatoo by early afternoon. That night we caught the RiverCat to Teneriffe and enjoyed another lovely night with Donna and Mike in their apartment overlooking the river. We caught our first Uber back to the boat that night - the experience was so easy (and cheap!) it won't be our last.

For our last day in the city, we started Friday morning with a walk along the Kangaroo Point cliffs, returning to Manookatoo for breakfast and to ready the boat for tomorrow's departure - doing the washing, filling the tanks and ensuring everything is "ship shape". We caught the CityHopper to Sydney Street wharf and wandered through the lovely old streets of New Farm, shopping at the local precinct for infgredients for an antipasto lunch. Later that afternoon we caught the CityCat to Northside Hamilton to Eat Street, a large market made out of shipping containers where all manner of cuisine can be purchased. We enjoyed Chandon and Coronas, chinese dumplings, turkish mezze and slow cooked lamb, listening to bands and enjoying the atmosphere before returning to Manookatoo for an early night.

Gateway Bridge at sunrise

A busy port - plus warship

The Captain was up well before 6am on Saturday, keen to catch the outgoing tide on the river. We made our way downstream, past Donna and Mike. sleeping in their apartment, RiverCats still tied up at their wharf, the P&O Dawn Princess berthed at Brett's Wharf and the many container ships, plus a variety of war ships fresh from international "War games" off the coast. We have loved our week in Brisbane and the opportunities it has brought us to have a taste of history.

An extra week in "Paradise"

Whilst recovery from surgery has kept us on the Gold Coast for a week longer than intended, we have continued to make the most of our surroundings - and beautiful weather - to ensure the stay is as enjoyable as possible!
With a few days before the first of several medical appointments, we cruised up to Calypso Bay for lunch at Harrigans Irish Pub, then across to Jumpinpin Bar, at the top of South Stradbroke Island, watching a boat cross the bar and head out to sea, before we continued down to Tipplers Passage, at South Straddie, for two nights on anchor. We enjoyed ocean and lakeside walks, and made new friends with others also cruising north, getting advice on passages to consider and anchorages worth investigating. Tipplers is a lovely location, very busy with many moored and passing boats, particularly on weekends. Fortunately, a 6 knot limit stops the swamping wake from large motor cruisers!!

Where the forest meets the sea

We returned to one of our favourite anchorages at Paradise Point on Sunday night, enjoying a walk and a drink at The Point before returning to the boat for pizza and an early night. The next morning, the Captain moved to anchor just off Bayview Harbour, taking the first mate up the canal by dinghy to her appointment with the "Hand Therapist", then cruising across to Southport Yacht Club Marina. A tram trip to Northcliffe, with a drink at the Surf Club, then a walk along the beach and another drink at O'Malleys, left us feeling like we had "done" Surfers Paradise! We enjoyed dinner at Southport Yacht Club, overlooking the marina, that night.

Surfers Paradise - including meter maids

On Tuesday morning the first mate had a bone density scan, so once again the Captain drove the dinghy across the water and tied up at the jetty for a short walk up the hill. Returning again to Manookatoo, we cruised back along South Straddie, anchoring just off Currigee Campground and taking another walk to the ocean. It is easy, when you look north, to imagine you are in the wilderness, but a glance south reminds you of how close the skyscrapers of Surfers are! After lunch we cruised back across the Broadwater and along the waterfront to Paradise Point for a final night on anchor, choosing dinner from the local butcher/seafood shop and enjoying a farewell drink at The Point.

A favourite place for a tipple

Another morning cruise to anchor just off Bayview Harbour, but this time a freshening wind made us wary of a trip in the dinghy, so we cruised into the berth we had booked at the Marina and borrowed Jenny's car instead! Shopping was the order of the day, with stops at Runaway Bay shopping centre and Dan Murphy's, plus flowers to thank Jenny for her generosity! Laundry was next on the agenda, bringing our washing up to date before our next cruise. A delicious dinner with Jenny capped off the day.

Farewell Surfers Paradise!

Thursday appointments with the Hand Therapist and the Orthopaedic Specialist reassured the First Mate that the surgery and recovery program was on track. With a week before the next appointments it was time to return the car to Jenny, cast off our lines and begin the cruise north, following the Main Channel through mangroves and islands towards Moreton Bay. After 22 nautical miles, we dropped anchor in the lee of Karragarra Island, having finally said goodbye to the Gold Coast and looking forward to new adventures ahead.
Captain's log:
Cruising distance: 129 nautical miles
Duration of stay: 25 days

Family and friends.....and folly

The Gold Coast; 41 floors up

With many transport options to reach the Gold Coast, we have been lucky to catch up with friends and family over the past week. And with beautiful weather conditions and many anchorages to visit, we have been keen to do some exploring!

Marathon hero!

The First Mate's daughter, Kirsty, was here to participate in the Gold Coast half marathon, so we made the most of coinciding visits to have lunch at Northcliffe Surf Club, watch her run and enjoy well-earned massages the next day.
Paynesville friends Peter and Sal drove down from their holiday on the Sunshine Coast and we enjoyed lunch onboard Manookatoo at Paradise Point on a beautiful sunny Tuesday.

Peter and Sal from Paynesville

Sunset drinks at Couran Cove

The Captain's sister, Shaunagh and Mark joined us for two days cruising on Manookatoo, staying at Couran Cove on Thursday and enjoying drinks at sunset cove and a morning walk to the surf beach, then cruising to Paradise Point on Friday, with a walk along the Esplanade and a drink at a local bar, then they had three nights in a Gold Coast apartment where we joined them for a lovely family dinner on the 41st floor.

Jack, Amy and Chris

41st floor family dining

The Captain's son, Chris, flew up from Melbourne with Amy and Jack on Saturday for a few days in the sunshine. We were so pleased to see how well Jack is growing and we enjoyed quality time with them while they were here, including a cruise around the Broadwater and Wave Break Island with fresh prawns straight from the trawler for lunch, and dinner at the Hard Rock Cafe.

First try strapping...

Living on a boat in a location like the Gold Coast is easy....most of the time, but a small folly can become a major challenge! A chance slip on a painted driveway one dewy morning proved the First Mate's undoing, as she stumbled and fell, hurting her right hand. Remembering the First Aid training undertaken before the cruise began, it was time for RICE: rest, ice, compression, elevation, followed by strapping fingers together while they recovered - only they didn't.

A "Suzuki frame"

A visit to the doctor and an x-ray showed a fracture, the resultant visit to an upper limb specialist and a CT scan revealed a shattered and dislocated knuckle. As a result, surgery to fit a "suzuki frame" and six weeks of therapy and repeat doctors' visits will be keeping us in this vicinity for the next while, and the Captain has taken on the added responsibilities of first mate, chief cook and bottle washer.
We are confident that with some logistical planning we can make this work and keep enjoying ourselves! With plenty of places to visit in the local area and beautiful weather for lazing around, plus a range of transport options to get us back to the Gold Coast from further afar, the Manookatoo Adventures will continue.....!!

Onwards to the Sunshine State!

First light - leaving Iluka

We were up at first light on Saturday morning, as we were unsure of whether we would go all the way to the Gold Coast seaway or drop anchor halfway, behind Cape Byron. The promising conditions had many people on the move, and we joined the procession out over the Yamba bar and into the ocean. The wind was almost non existent and the ocean swell was a slow roll, making cruising ideal. As the sun came up we headed north, passing Evans Head and Ballina, where minor flooding in the river had created a muddy plume way out to sea. We saw many whales along the way, breaching and tail slapping, keeping their distance from us - and us from  them! Just before 2:00 we rounded Cape Byron and, with the sea conditions so mild, we decided to drop anchor just off the beach for the night. Several other boats did the same, and Grant from Sea Wolf came over in his dinghy and offered us a lift ashore, where we enjoyed an afternoon cuppa before returning to Manookatoo for dinner and an early night.

Byron Bay

The sea swell dropped further overnight, with the gentle rocking motion ensuring we slept well. The captain was up early again on Sunday, and just after 6am he pulled up the anchor and we headed off. It was a beautiful day for sitting on the flybridge enjoying the view as we passed the beaches of the far north NSW coast and the mountain range behind, with Mt Warning rising in the distance.

Time for a new cruising guide!

As we passed the Tweed River and moved into Queensland waters, we put away our "Cruising the NSW coast" book and opened "Cruising the Coral coast", eager to read what Alan Lucas had in store for us. Passing the Gold Coast beaches we could see many people enjoying the water on such a beautiful winter day.
We entered the Gold Coast Seaway, finding it just as Alan had described: "expect frenetic, thrill seeking activity" - with jet skis, kayaks, small fishing boats (including two anchored in the middle!), yachts, large power boats - it was crazy! Sea Wolf had entered just before us and finding the nearby moorings overcrowded, Grant suggested an alternative - Paradise Point. We followed him along past South Stradbroke island and the mansions of  the Sovereign Islands, dropping anchor on the quiet side of the waterway.
The waterways of the northern Gold Coast promise us lots of different new experiences without venturing back into the ocean and we intend spending at least a couple of weeks here. As the mayor of the Gold Coast says, "with 270+ kms of navigable waterways and a climate that boasts 300+ days a year of sunshine, Gold Coast provides a heaven on earth for boat lovers"!!
So far we have tried five different spots and each experience has been unique:

Go, Kirsty!

Paradise Point is a peaceful anchorage with upmarket canal estates on the eastern side, nice suburban streets on the west and a lovely village of shops with lots of cafes. It also offers four different bus routes to the Southport transport hub.

Catching up with Jenny and Simon

Bayview Harbour Marina is where our friends Jenny and Simon live so it was lovely to catch up with them. It is also on the running track for the Gold Coast half marathon, and we made the most of cheering Kirsty as she ran both ways, then following on our bikes to Southport!

The Gold Coast City Marina, on the Coomera River, was where Manookatoo had come from and the captain was keen to show the people at Clipper how well she was traveling. We both enjoyed admiring some newer bigger Clippers but, as always, we were very happy to return to our own boat! The facilities at both the Marina and Boatworks nearby are very impressive, to say nothing of the Riviera factory between the two; it is a hive of activity with boats being delivered, repaired, taken out or returned to the water. Not far away is Sanctuary Cove - the money in this area is so staggering, with huge houses, boats and cars and the shops, restaurants and facilities to support the wealthy residents and visitors.

Not for the faint-hearted

The north arm of the Coomera is a winding, shoaling river - definitely not for the faint hearted! After just making it over areas with depths of zero, we were very happy to rejoin the main channel!

South Stradbroke Island

Couran Cove resort, on South Stradbroke Island, is a hidden "gem" in this region. It offers everything a holiday maker could ask for - with resort pools, cafés and bars, sporting facilities and bikes for hire, walking trails to the ocean on one side and the river on the other - and a special deal for boaties: what you pay in marina fees you get in resort credit, encouraging us to have a drink and lunch at the restaurant overlooking the marina - lovely!

Couran Cove, South Stradbroke Island

"Bum's Bay", a little inlet next to the spit north of Seaworld, is a very popular anchorage for boats of all kinds - for sailors making the passage north or south it is just inside the Gold Coast seaway so very easy to stop for the night, for houseboats there are shallow corners close to shore, and for all the other boaties looking for a nice spot close to Surfers Paradise or the surf beaches it offers all they want, with the opportunity to use tenders to get closer to the "hot spots" without getting caught up in it. We found a spot on a Friday night that hadn't been there the previous Sunday; the captain counted over 50 boats there that night - and I reckon he missed a few!

"Bum's Bay" on a quiet afternoon

We have family in the vicinity during the coming fortnight, so we look forward to showing them some of what we have found and finding new places as well...
Captain's log
Yamba bar to Gold Coast seaway
Distance travelled: 100.01 nautical miles
Duration: 14 hours, 50 minutes
Fuel consumption: 117 litres
Trip summary
Sydney to Gold Coast
Distance: 425.1 nautical miles
Hours: 61.35
Fuel: 599.4 litres